Sunday, November 29, 2009

Back in La Paz BCS



































































November 29, 2009
The following postings were written in the time frame Nov 14 to today. I will try to put some pictures on the blog.
Arrived back in La Paz this afternoon, one day earlier than we planned. Last night was a very rough night with 4 foot swells and 20 knots of wind in the anchorage. No a word about that weather on the SSB during the day and it caught us by surprise. A much more worrisome night than the ones off the coast of California in that the fetch was 15 miles and the surge and swells had some time and distance to build up. Broke te snugger on he anchor rode and had to rely on just the ½” line for windlass relief and strain reduction. Left and had a great sail today with westerlies all day. Sitting here in Marina Palmira which is quite lavish and fancy. Wish I was back in the islands.
Boat chores to put her to sleep for 2 months and then fly home on the 2nd.

November 14, 2009
Left La Paz this morning to go north to the islands. Very difficult time in my setting up moorage for Allymar while I return to Oregon for 2 months. Not sure what it was that I ate, but wokeup in the middle of the night with the problem noone wants to have when traveling. They were so good to me in the office at Marina Palmira. Found me a couch to lie on, took my information from the couch, brought me water and gatoraide and let me just keep the key to the bathroom. All ready to the layup and have my tickets for Oregon on Dec 2nd. On second thought, bet it was the sample food that I ate in the CCC.
What did I do all day on the boat? Slept all the way to Caleta Prieta and most of the rest of the day. I have absolutely no idea what Dean did beyond driving the boat there. Clark and Nina dingy’d over when we go here, but I had no energy to do more than get anchored and put the sail covers on. Hope for a better day tomorrow. Tonight the norther is coming in so that say.

November 15, 2009
A lot better today, still not eating. The bay is filled with boats (power and sail) waiting out the norther. Blew fairly hard last night and today with gusts up to 25 here in the protected bay. Motored around some in the dingy and although got soaked from the swell splash, it was refreshing. Can’t help but hark back to the days on Santa Cruz and in frisco bay where we needed to use foulies to keep from freezing from the spray when out in the dingy in a breeze. Warm and dry has been replaced with warm and OK wet. Spent some time on shore and it was fun to walk in the steps left from my time here last year. I do enjoy returning to places that hold good memories. Watched the kayak parties come in and won der about the couple from Colorado who went on the kayak trip last year in an effort to put some energy back into their marriage. I wished that well and a happy life together. Their intention was good and maybe getting away together was the poultice that they needed.
Planned an afternoon brunch with Russ and Ros, Clark and Nina on Worrel Wind. Maybe a hike before.
The norther continues to blow here. Wind blasts down the anchorage between the east and west openings and spins us all around. Can’t imagine what it is like outside this beautiful place. The fish camps seem 5to have made it through the hurricane rather well, or they have rebuilt them to look like before. One of the rough structures had a TV antenna, solar panel and VHF antenna. These fishermen spend considerable time in these remote camps and return to their base to sell fish and replenish food and salt. I have seen no females fishing.
Interesting crabs here: Fiddler Crabs with one small clawthey use to eat with (the up and down movement like the movement of a bow) and another very large on used for mating. I guess that size matters no matter the difficulty in holding it I saw some males that had one that must have been hard to walk with. They did seem to be proud and carried themselves in a grand manner, clay up and ready.
This is also the nesting and mating grounds for the blue footed booby. Last time I saw one was in San Diego at the going away party where a man was dressed as one with blue shoes and one rather large boob in the middle of his chest.
Looks like we will spend one more night here as the swells and wind have not dropped much.
November 16, 2009
Yep, another day here in Caleta Prieta. A day spent hiking up the northeast wall of the crater to the escarpment at the top with Russ. Fantastic views of this old volcanic crater. A big difference from last year is how green it is due to the recent hurricane. The desert is in bloom with flowers, new green growth and underbrush where last year there was only dirt and rocks. Hiked up a water course where you can just imagine the speed and force of the water than arrives with a hurricane and must find its way downhill. We passed through bolder fields with deep holes that still held water and smooth waves of rock that were like waling on a sidewalk for 100 feet.
The water clarity was not As good as I hoped due to the action of the norther caused swells. Thus snorkeling was not as dramatic. Wish I had an Hawaiian sling.
Will leave here tomorrow.

November 17, 2009
Left Caleta Prieta thast morning and got nowhere at all. Were able to go about 2.9 knots max with pounding and pitching from the residual swell from the norther. Turned around and anchored about 1 mile north in Ensenada Grande. Just like it was last year trying to go north from San Francisco to Evaristo. Allymar and most boats can’t go into the swells without significant difficulty. One of those times where you just stop and go to plan B. Plan B is pretty damm good as Ensenada Grande was excellent water clarity, a wall to snorkel on and a somewhat flat hike. Hiked up the arroyo to some caves filled with shells that fall out of the overhead over time. Leaching out of the substrate over time so give us a sense of time and geologic history. Could also smell sulfur and the water in the lagoon was slightly warm although nothing was mentioned in the cruising guide about hot springs here.
The most common cactus is the Cardon Cactus. It can get to heights of 70 feet snd 4 feet in diameter. Some of them were in bloom and probably relate to the late season hurricane as this is not the blooming season. They are a type of Sargasso and look like sentinels along the ridge tops.
There are only 3 boats in this large anchorage. 1 of which like us went out in the morning and came into here.

November 18, 2009
What a difference a day makes. The swells were almost nonexistent, and the winds were also nonexistent. Thus we had to motor this sailboat north. Prevailing Noserlies again darn. Stopped tonight at a roadsted anchorage at Manglo Solo on San Josed island. Rather spectacular place to anchor. Open to all but the north east and east, with a dramatic view of the sun setting over the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. Turned the island at our back red and orange as the sea turned from blue green to black. Before the sun set I was able to dingy to shore and hike over to the estuary behind the sun spit and once again wished I knew the names of the birds nesting and swimming on the flat salt pond. Another large cactus forest on the shore and the continuing green from the recent hurricane.

November 19, 2009
Woke this morning to the opposite of last nights display of color and light. The mountain range that was dark last evening was decorated with bright yellow light and was able to show off its sedimentary striations to all their splendor. Speaking of splendor, we sailed almost all day today wityh a strong NE wind, slowing backing to N at the end of the day. The non-silence of the boat when just under sail might be loud if not in comparison to the noise of the motor. It’s a swoosh, a swish, a companion sound of hull, rigging and wind than is soothing to me and seems to fall into a rhythm with the rise and fall of Allymar as she rides the swells.
Arrived at Bahia San Marte on the peninsula of Ba Ha. Just around the corner is Bahia Aqua Verde which will be our most northerly destination on this trip inside. In some ways all of these places seem to look the same. The difference is in the feeling of each place. Sand or pebble beaches. Smells coming off the land in the evening (smells that I have never felt before, both pleasant and unpleasant. Will try to find the aroma agent tomorrow as the trip ashore was short tonight.

November 20, 2009
Rough night. Swells out of the north wrapped around Punta San Marte and gave us a rather lumpy, rocky and uncomfortable night. Moved over behing a headlands for better protection from these swells. Was able to look down on the anchorage and the curving of the swells was very apparent from above. As frustrating as it is the opportunity to have thiis LOCAL KNOWLEDGE is part of the learning curve in my sailing encyclopedia. Thus we moved just al little bit and the comfort level is so much better. I have a habit of not anchoring near other boats, I guess to give them their space and not fall into the herd instincve I see often where we need to be close to others for some feeling of comfort and safety. I see it all the time: Large anchorage, 1 boat there and another anchors 100 feet away. Wish I had done that last night.
Hiked a lot and have about 5 possible options for the evening smalls. Will bartbacue the last of the chicken tonight and have it with quinona and grilled veggies. Breakfast was pancakes.

November 21, 2009
Bahia Aqua Verde. Tienda had minimal junk food and no veggies and the restaurant was open but the esposa was not in the la Casida thus we had to suffice with crackers and coke for lunch. Manly food don’t you think. What a delicious feast foe the eyes this bahia. Nestled in behind the reef near a small h with fishing pangas pulled up beyond the high tide line just to port of Allymar. Green water, pelicans (haVe I mentioned pelicans lately) and now to take a shower.

November 23, 2009
The tienda was much better yesterday. Maria was there and the truck from highway 1 had arrived. Was able to purchase veggies, pollo and crackers. No cervesa was availiable and we will have to go short rations until we arrive back at La Paz in a week. There is the slight chance that there will be beer in San Evariso in a couple of days. No wind at all the last 2 days, not even a land or sea breeze early or late in the day. We are presently under way south for either Puerto Los Gatos or San Telmo. Motoring again, but if you don’t motor you do not get anywhere it seems. The sailing here is somewhat like the San Juan’s and Gulf Islands in the variability of winds. We are hoping for a land breeze so left early to hopefully catch it. Capt and crew are falling into a more relaxed lifestyle each day and enjoying the sun and good weather. Having the water close at hand to cool off makes even the most warn and hot days tolerable.

November 23, 2009. 2100 hours
Got the sea breeze. Yahoo.

November 25, 2009
The day before Thanksgiving and I did not remember until someone on the beach today reminded me of that day where we remember and thank the universe for all of the wonderful experiences and opportunities open to us. I must mention at this time that I have no idea why the text is doing something weird on this page. So, here I sit in the cockpit of Allymar in the anchorage at Isla San Francisco under an overcast sky with almost half of a moon peeking through the clouds and almost providing enough light to do this computer by. Shorts and shirt, warm with just a slight breeze out of the north. I am thankful. Outside the anchorage the wind is 18 to 20 with the steep high frequency swells common here when the wind builds from the north. I am thankful to be anchored and calm. Hiked to the ridge this afternoon to look down on the anchorage and was disarmed by the color of the water. Green slowly turning to white as the shore approached and blue as the waters deepened off shore. I am thankful. Sailed from Bahia Los Gatos to Puerto San Evistero yesterday and from there to Isla San Francisco today without any need for the motor. & knots downwind under the twins and reefed main and mizzen. Allymar comes into her own as the wind piped up and keeps her balance and carries us safely to our destination. I am thankful. Caught a skipjack tuna each of ythe last 2 days and enjoyed the bounty of the sea each evening. I am thankful. Doogie McClean on the IPOD and I remember how his music at times matches the beat and time of the swells offshore. I am thankful again. Swaying here at anchor in company with other sailors and their crafts of transport. Meeting new and old friends on the beach and as the dingy’s travel boat to boat. I am thankful. I will be home this time next week with my partner Harp in our home in Oregon. I am and will be thankful. I hope and dream that she will be able to join me enough to really appreciate this area when she comes down here. To miss dinner tomorrow at my brother’s home in Chico is a sadness, but one tempered by memories of past dinners and the idea that we are connected in spirit if not space.
Tomorrow’s travel will be farther south heading to La Paz. Plan is to revisit Ensanada Grande where I was very content and napped in the afternoon. The clarity of the water was excellent for snorkeling and I will have more practice in taking underwater photos.Hopefully this small Norther will continue long enough to push us in a quiet mode on our journey Allymar has been such a good steed for the last (almost) 3 months. Hard to believe it has been that long. Will put her to bed in La Paz for 2 months or so and then ride her again until April 2010.

November 27, 2009
Hanging out here in the islands, Snorkeling, hiking and napping. A lot of fun is being had.

Love to all
Fair winds

Ken

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