Finally pictures from Mexico. December 1 2008

1. Look at all the sailboats at the start of leg 3 of the HaHa.

2. Look at the crowd of HaHa'ers partying on the beach at Bahia Tortuga. A good time was had by all.

3. Beautiful anchorage in the Sea of Cortez. You anchor in the deeper water where it is a darker blue.

4. Baja is a desert with cactus. Interesting cactus and a desert near the water.

5. The train station in Portland the day I left for Mexico to do the HaHa.

6. Not the best picture as the Dolphin would not stand (swim) still. At night they looked like torpedoes attacking the boat in the phosphorense. They are fast and move towards and away from the boat with suprising speed and agility.

I was not able to post any pictures of the day of the dead. I did not feel comfortable in bringing my camera to what was a rather personal and religious demonstration of their relationship with their ancestors. Not at all like our Halloween night.

I am home in Grand Ronde Oregon where Harp is employed as a Nurse Practitioner at an Indian reservation. She has idea that I will make a good house husband while I am here. Shop and clean is my middle name. I need to get to the storage trailer to get some warm clothes. I am still dressed for Mexico with shorts and hawaiian shirts.

Plan is to do some part time therapy work and follow her wherever she goes with her work (maybe even Wisconsin). We plan to restart our travels on Allymar in August 2009.

Fair winds and holiday greetings

Ken

Baja Sur California November 15th 2008

Finally have accessd to a computer with sufficent search power to get to the blog and time to add to the content.

It has been quite the time since I left in May. Rounded the top of Vancouver Island and now the bottom of Baja. Two capes to put in the ol memory book. Just wish Harp had done both of them with me.

I am currently in La Paz and will be leaving tomorrow to travel north to visit 2 islands prior to coming home to Oregon on Thanksgiving day. It has been the great adventure so far: Left San Diego and sailed down the outside of baja stopping at Bahia Tortugas, Bahia Santa Maria and finally Cabo San Lucas. Cabo is everything as advertised and less. In your face huckterism, loud music and gas guzzling power boats. The outside is quiet, without much development and lovely in its starkness. Did have the opportunity to spend time with the locals during the Day of the Dead celebration (our halloween). That day means a different thing down here and is a religious and secular feast day. They celebrate their ancestors with flowers and made up graves. They also want candy for the kids. Luckily I did get back to the boat before all the pngas stopped running.
Santa Maria was a sad time as I had to leave Vinsang. Being yelled at, demeaned by the skipper and feeling no sense of being thanked for what I was doing just got to be too much. Hated to jump ship, but when someone volunteered to take our places the decision was easy. I got a position on a 57 foot cat and had the chance to try out sailing on the "dark side". My shipmate Debbie also found another ride to cabo. Just never know what will happen do you. I was ready to find a ride back to the states with a local if a boat ride did not come up, but the other fellow boat travelers took care of us.

North from Cabo to la Paz was a three day trip stopping at Bahia los Friaries, Bahia De Los Mortes and another unnamed bahia. La Paz is everything Cabo was not. A real town with real people living their lives. Walked all over town and no one asked me to purchase weed or look at porn. A blessing. I am on a Contessa 32 with Paul out of Maple Bay. Vancouver Island, B.C.

As much as this is a grand adventure, I miss doing it with Harp on our own boat. Living out of a small bag and not having my stuff is tiring. So to fly home (with an 11 hour layover in Guadalahara) is in the books. Hope to add to this before I return.

From sunny La Paz

Fair Winds

Ken

Finally Pictures

Sent these from Grand Ronde Oregon where Harp is working as a FNP at a native health clinic. Flew to see her for 3 days and it was a great visit.

Back to San Diego tomorrow to get ready to go down the coast of Baja to La Paz.

Pictures are of the crew of SeaHorse and skipper Glenn at the old post office in San Simeon, San Francisco Bay skyline, sunset from sausalito, shoreline north of San Simeon Bay, off shore looking at SeaHorse, San Diego with a carrier.

San Diego October 16th 2008

Hello from Pier 32 marina in San Diego

Arrived here yesterday after an overnight sail from Santa Barbara. The full moon, dolphins in the moonlight, minimal traffic (other boats) and good music on the I Pod. Rode the Santana's as far as possible then the northwesterterlies picked back up after Catalina Island. I really love the night passages when it is warm and not as moist as off the Oregon and northern california coasts. Quite apparent why this area is so over populated.

Will leave for Mexico as part of the baja Ha Ha rally of 180 sailboats. We plan to go offshore some distance to get out of the mess of boats. It seems that many of the southern california boats hug the coast and even motor. Our plan is to sail it. One more crew member will be joining us soon (Debra from Michigan).

Most of the trip down Baja will be down wind and I hope to set the twin downwind sails for the first time. Glen has them on the boat but has never used them.

Although sailing can be hard work and has the potential (like most things that have meaning) for danger. I really love this opportunity to do something I have dreamed of doing for years. Nights like the last few make you forget the wet 35 knot rolly seas nights of the past. The guide books are correct in that the weather really changes for the better as you round Point Conception. Wake up in the morning and not have to put on a coat. T shirts and shorts. yahoo.

My job now is to scout out for next year with Harp. I do know we will not be going to the spiffy marinas. There are very good places to anchor that give one access to the city without that cost. The coast has many excellent small protected harbors where we could anchor, and then there is Santa Cruz and Catalina islands which we did not stop at at all.

I will be flying to Portland tomorrow to see Harp and really look forward to seeing her again. The ability too travel in a few short hours what took weeks on a boat staggers my mind. Slow food. Slow travel and slow days in this adventure are the goals.

A toast to my mom on her birthday this Oct 18th. Mary Elizabeth Heaney Gosling

I still have not figured out how to attach pictures. Sorry

Love to all

Aloha

Ken

Santo Barbara California

Hello to all from Ken

I have moved my flag to Vindsang, a very similar boat to AllyMar. We are currently in Santa Barbara California waiting out the Santana winds that blow down the canyons and out to the pacific. We have had a fantastic time going south, spending time in SanFrancisco at a marina in Alameda, Santa Cruz (where the fireworks from the boardwalk was our greeting as we came in at midnight), a wonderful anchorage off the Hearst Castle, Morro Bay and now Santa Barbara. Whales (diving under the boat), dive bombing pelicans, seals, sea otters, dolphins and finally now as the weather has warmed beach volleyball. My skipper is named Glenn and he hales from Bellingham Washington.

Hopefully the next step will be to Santa Crus Island. It all depends upon the winds as today there is no anchorage on the eastern side of the island due to the winds. As this entire summer has been passing; time and weather will tell. To finally have a summer is great and makes me thankful for the weather of the Rogue Valley.

On a sad note I must mention the passing of my mother. I was stopping off in Chico to see her on my way down to San Fran when I discovered she had died 6 days previous. Quite the shock. She was a sweet woman and had nothing bad to say about anyone ever. I and the rest of her family will miss her a lot. She did live to 1 month before her 91st, so quite a life.

It is hard to find a computer to update this blog and I will try to be more timely in the future and find out how to uplink pictures in a computer that is not mine.

Aloha and fair winds to all

Ken

Making Lemonade September 16, 2008

Well, the best laid plans can change, and they have. My wife/partner "Harp" has developed some mechanical problems (health related, physically limiting but not life threatning) that make it necessary that she get off Allymar for a time to heal. We have put Allymar to bed for the winter in WinchesterBay and have changed our plans for the immediate future. I will be hopefully continue the trip to Mexico on a sister boat to Allymar "sv/Vindsang" starting in late September, and she will heal herself and return to working as a Nurse Practitioner.

Not the schedule we planned, but the best for the short term. I will be able to scope out the Mexico scene and have greater sailing skills prior to our re-starting the trip next year. She will have had the time to sail without further injury and aggravation. Traveling without her will be carrying around a big hole where she should be and I will miss her a lot. I appreciate her openness in giving me the opportunity to continue without her for a while.

I expect to return to the states (hopefully with a democratic president) in mid Janaury 2009. If McCain wins, there might not be a reason to return except to gather up Harp and go. I sure hope the electorate has the intelligence to see the republicans for what they are, and choose another path for this country besides one of invasion, loss of personal liberties and sell out to the rich.

See you all down the waves.

Ken

September 9, 2008 Boatless in Ashland

Family and (most) friends have been visited. Jobs that needed a wood shop have been finished. Re-provisioning at Costco and Shop & Kart is done. Its back to Allymar and so long to Ashland. Hopefully everything will fit in the rental car for the trip back to Winchester Bay this afternoon. The biggest item to move is the inflatable dingy to replace the wood one that would not last a day going through the surf in Mexico.
We will leave Winchester Bay in a few days to go south. Plan is to stop near or in San Francisco Bay and than to the North Channel Islands and Santa Catalina Island before Mexico.
Many thanks to Dick and Diane for a wonderful place to stay here in Ashland. Many thanks to Cyd for storing our trailer and all its "landfall" stuff.
Being on solid land, having a kitchen rather than a galley, not having to pump the head and sleeping in a real bed has been a pleasant break, but I look forward to the turn on Allymar's hull as she goes south. Looking at the moon last night brings the possibility for a full moon trip down the coast, a magical time as your eyes adjust to the moonlight and the seeing is better than I ever expected.
May autumn bring all the best "Indian Summer" of your lives.

Fair Winds and Smooth Seas

Ken

August 27th 2008

We are back at Winchester Bay Oregon after coming down the coast from Washington . Planned to get to Brookings or Crescent city, but weather once again has stopped the train. We will leave Allymar here and go to the Rogue Valley and do all the stuff that will make the trip to California and then Mexico possible. Thanks to friends we have a place to stay. It is good to be home again and we look forward to seeing our friends again.

Want to thank Nina Wagaman for the great picture she took of Allymar with all her sails flying and the two of us waving.

Coming down the coast is a pleasure compared to going north. Sails rather than motor and until today warmer weather. Took a great video yesterday and will try to atttach it to the next posting.

Take care

Ken

August 17th 2008 Westport Washington

Was sitting on Allymar yesterday when a fellow walked up and said "Do you know me?" I answered "I do now". He was looking at Allymar as if he was seeing an old friend. He introduced himself as Bob Kniermien, and had sold NINFA (Allymars previous name) to the man I purchased her from. His imprint remains on her today in the interior wood and stain glass, compass binnacle, cabin top skylight and many of the things we like so much about her. It was a pleasure to meet him and see his pleasure in return. I hope to be a positive about the next owner as he was. Thanks Bob!!

We are back in the land of military customs officials, (can't go below when they go through cabinets and drawers, get lectured on all the documents we need to have, want to look at our money and etc). Yep, the good old USA. I seem to always forget how much we have moved down the road to oppressive government control of its citizens each time I leave the country. Of
course I did not mention my feelings to the officer, as we would most likely be in Gitmo by now.

Heading further down the coast as the weather allows.

live slow, sail fast

Ken

August 9,2008 Tofino, Western Vancouver Island

Aloha

Well, we have wended our way further south on the outside of Vancouver Island and are tied up to the government dock in Tofino. I was here last in 1971 and how this place has changed. What was a small isolated town is now a bustling gentrified city with art galleries, upscale and expensive restaurants and the constant drone of float planes and boats taking people to the hot springs and whale watching. It is good to walk on be on land as we have become somewhat tired of the constant water, rock and trees as our landscape of view. Although it is gorgeous up here, it is all the same, and one cove seems to morf into the next without much difference, and it is very difficult to get off the boat and go for a hike. Where the water ends the rocks begin followed by inpenetrable rain forest. We look forward to dirt, trees, walkable terrain and then water soon. Not to complain but a little diversity would be appreciated.
Harp had the trifecta on her 50th birthday. She was able to pet an orange cat, paddle a canoe and was given a bottle of red wine by the Nootka lighthouse. Spend the day in Friendly Cove on Nootka Island. Although the cake was a bit under done, it was eaten with gusto.
We will be heading further south when the weather allows (southerlies today) and then back to Oregon for a rest and reprovisioning stop. We expect to leave Allymar in Brookings and travel to the Rogue Valley and Chico California. My mother fractured her hip recently and a visit is mandatory.
We continue to meet great fellow boaters and appreciate the opportunity to have that bit of community when it presents itself. We meet and greet the same boats more than once as we all travel in the same direction at different speeds and to different anchorages. Some are even going to Mexico this winter.
If anyone wants to join us for the sail from Vancouver Island to Brookings (with a stop at Tillamook), contact us ASAP. We expect to leave Ucluelet as soon as possible after we pick up our mail on the 15th. On a warmer note the trip further south to Southern California (mid September) promises to be warmer and crew for that journey would be appreciated. Although sailing offshore is not always fun and games, the opportunity to go off shore does have that "adventure" opportunity. Let us know.

Fair winds and kind seas to all

Ken

First Mate’s LogJuly 25, 2008Walters Cove, Kyuquot Inlet West side, Vancouver Island

An historic First Nation's Treaty signing, and we were there


I hate to say it, but my mood is weather dependent. And what a difference a day makes.
Spirits were high in Walter’s Cove on Thursday July 24th, as that is the day the supply ship Uchuck III arives in Walters Cove. There is no road here, you either come by sea or by air. We also were fortunate to stumble upon and arrive on the day of a very important and historic treaty signing between the Canadian government and several West coast Vancouver Island tribes, or as they prefer, bands.
I had just got off AllyMar, and took the garbage to the dumpster and found that it was full, and had a wooden pallet on top to keep the lid closed, way too heavy for me to lift. “Now how am I going to do this,” I muttered to myself, when I heard a voice from behind offering to help me. Ken (another one!) was a burly stout very gregarious Canadian who talked to me from that moment on like he’d known me my whole life. And he was a fount of information, giving in non stop. He told me about “ a great and momentous celebration” that was occurring tonight, “and Mike De Jong is being flown in,” the Minister of Aboriginal Relations and Reconciliation. Burly Ken was heading home on the Uchuck in the morning with his buddy Tom, the end of their kayak trip in the Islands. “But I see 3 kayaks,” I said. His other buddy had to be transported out because he burned his foot at their campfire. He towed in his friend’s Kayak. “Now he owes you,” I told him. Ken was so outgoing and engaging, I wondered what he did for a living. “I have a machine shop.” Such wasted talent, he could have been the Master of Ceremonies for this night’s event.
“All are invited to the ceremony,” we were told by the girl at the store, who had consulted her aunt. Even a couple of no nothing gringos , so we crossed the little cove to the res, and sat in the back of the room, trying to at least look Canadian . They had prepared a meal for all of us. We had already eaten and intended to miss the meal by arriving at 6:30, when the ceremony was scheduled to begin, but at 6:30 they hadn’t served dinner yet. We were each given a plate with ham, potato salad, pineapple salad and green beans.
The minister De Jong was easy to spot--one of the few guys with a dinner jacket on. He was a very effectual politician, playing to the crowd, making jokes when the kids were unruly and noisy. Ken introduced us to another Canadian, Glenn who owns a kayak guide business WestCoastAdventures.com. I asked him if he felt the Minister was sincere. He bit his lip and thought long and hard. “I think he gets it.”
There was drumming, singing and dancing, and then we actually witnessed the signing of 14 copies of an inches thick document, see photo of Witness Book. Thanks to Ken the kayaker pointing us out to him, I had a chance to ask Minister De Jong just what the treaty signified. “It gives back to the First Nations people the jurisdiction of their historic ancestral land, to manage as they see fit, within the context of Canadian law.” I suspected that they could have taken a cue from our forefathers, writing the Constitution on one page. Life gets complicated tho I guess, after so many years of exploitation, it takes a few trees worth of paper to make it all right.
Java the Hut
The Canadian kayaker women had told me about the one-of-a-kind drive up coffee kiosk at Walters Cove. It had even received front page billing earlier this month in a local paper. A kilometer by pathway, it was made for float by through, on the way out of the cove. A sodden path it was when I skirted the puddles on or last morning at Walters Cove. The previous day, it had been sunny, and Eric the owner, and a carpenter working with him, Ross, took a break to chat. Eric was a sweet an engaging man, former Jewish New Yorker who liked to teach the Native Americans (who were clearly fond of him) Yiddish. “they love Yiddish, it’s very similar to their own language.” Must be a Jewish-Native American connection somewhere…..
Ross’s wife was the nurse at the local medical outpost. Her contracted was for 8 weeks on, 8 weeks off, and she had to be within 15 minutes of the office 24/7, plus her regular 40 hours a week. “She’s been up all night with heart attack victims, has to medivac seriously injured out.” She took care of Ken the Kayaker’s friends’ third degree burn. I asked him about diabetes. “Oh ya sure, 60% of those people at the ceremony have diabetes. They love their chum-is, their native word for dessert, literally ‘sweet’. They’ll sit around after dinner for an hour and a half and then pile their plates high with cake and ice cream, and eat it all. It’s incredible.” He said that before the white man came, they used to eat fruit. So his wife is trying to get them to exchange chocolate cake for cherries. “It’s slow going.” They used to have apple trees on the island they lived on previously, but haven’t planted any at Walters Cove.
Here Rusty!
What’s chocolate, white and love all over? A chocolate lab named Rusty, who I had a major love fest with, see photo. “He’s not my dog, but he loves me, and follows me everywhere”, Eric said. I told Ken I was going to get a mellow chocolate lab when we return to land life. But for now, a snoring Rusty on my lap will have to do.

First Mates Log July 30 2008 Tahsis

FirstMate’s log
July30th, 2008
Tahsis Inlet
Welcome to Winter
“An unseasonably strong low pressure front of 990 millibars is stationary over central Vancouver Island” declared Environment Canada over our VHF radio station. The Canadian weather service is always correct, if not always accurate (does that sound like politician speak?) They predict that a storm is coming, but the timing and duration is not always correct. This storm was to have lasted a mere couple of days, but as I write we are well into our fourth day (Ken says it’s been atleast a year) and perhaps things will lighten tomorrow. I have made a request of God to please do something only he/she can do, and that is give me a sunny day on August 2nd, my fiftieth birthday. And a fish. I want to catch a fish. I would take nearly any good tasting retainable fish, as defined by Canadian fisheries, but a salmon or a halibut would really do the trick to mark this for what it is, a half century of birthdays. If you love me God……..I tell Ken my biggest fear is that I will catch a fish that is too big to land, but then at least I’d have a one-that-got-away story, which would certainly be a start.
Not that I’m complaining about the weather or anything, but the locals are. Except the one and only waitress here. “Good tips. When the fishing is bad and the weather is worse, the drinking increases and the tips great.” Ah to be young , have nice hair and be tipped for it.
The folks that own this resort have a condo to which they retire to every November in Las Barillas in the Sea of Cortes. On the wall of their restaurant they have 2 plaques with what appear to be giant golf tees mounted. Look a little closer and on the plaque there is a photo of him and her and their guy-normous finfish--a sailfish and a sword fish. She caught the biggest one, within 10 pounds of the women’s world record. The ‘golf tees’ are the bills off these trophy fish. They caught them in the Sea of Cortes in 2004. What an accomplishment.
I spoke with John the owner, bemoaning my poor success at fishing. We went through it all again, how I need to rig our gear and where I need to go where the fish actually are (did you hear the one about the man who lost his watch? Where did he lose it? ‘Over there’ Then why are you looking here? ‘Because the light’s better). Sometimes where the fish are is not always the most convenient location for the sailboat eg a lee shore. So dear readers, if you wish me a happy birthday, say a prayer for the nee fisherwoman on her birthday--may she catch a fish in the sun!!

First Mate's Log Brooks Peninsula July 23rd

For those of you paying attention, Brooks Peninsula came BEFORE The Bunsby's.

Brooks Peninsula is a dividing line on Vancouver Island: it separates colder conditions above, to a more temperate environment below. It also requires a good weather window, and once around it, we could relax our pace a little.
As land masses go, Brooks is fairly geometrical, with straight lines, but jutting at an irregular angle, like a tooth that needs orthodontia. On it's southern expanse is an environment that is nearly absent anywhere north--whitesand beaches in long expanses. They appear as whitemarks--like a swath of White Out between ocean and rock. But, we cut ourselves another line, one that took us further south.
Winds were high as we headed southwest around the point, but they were such that we were on a downwind broadreach, and we rose over the rollers gracefully and comfortably, because AllyMar was doing what she was built to do, saildownwind.
"Shall we turn the engine down honey?" I said to Ken, after we had 3 sails up and we were consistently cruising at 6 plus knots. "No, I want to get around this cape as quickly as possible." Shoals and isolated rocks dot this area, some of them just barely covered at low water, anxious and reaching to catch a 4 ton keel.
We flew along, comfortably and warm under a bright sun and sea. At the tip of Cape Cook lies Solander Island, a refuge for pelagic birds. I spied rounded white bellies on fast beating shortwings, Solander Puffins.
On 360 degree view, a tall sail was seen far aft. We tracked it, as it made it’s way from aft of starboard, to aft of port, then cut inside Solander Island as we went outside. The were heading for the beaches on the southside of Brooks, and they disappeared quickly after we rounded the Cape. We headed to the Bunsby Islands, named after a Charles Dicken’s character.

First Mate's Log The Bunsby's July 25th

First Mate’s Log
July 25th 2008
The Bunsby Islands
You may wonder how we know where to go, where the anchorages are good, and how we find out where to get fuel, ice for the icebox, and an occasional civilized shower. There are several excellent cruising guides that we use. In all of them the Bunsby Islands south of Cape Cook were recommended. We found Cozumel sands, some obliging star fish and some hearty Canadian women sea kayakers.
The Bunsbys are a popular destination for kayakers, who explore this protected group. The tidal changes reveal a cornicopia of marine life. We found a crevice in a reef rock that had a column of anemones, starfish, mussles, clams, crab and of course kelps.
It had been weeks since I had any significant female company. We anchored of the South Cove, which faced the ocean with just a low rocky rise but was protected nonetheless. We were also next to a beach, a perfect beach for kayakers to make camp. There were 7 or so, women who had gotten together like this for 14 years, Kayaking on the white beaches of the south Brooks and exploring the Bunsbys. “I’m going to make them some chocolate chip cookies” I said to Ken, “and see if Canadian women have as much of a chocolate gene as American women.” They do! Chocolate can dissolve any barrier. I wish to report that the sisterhood is strong, that we all are concerned about the same injustices. Our lives are made of the same fabric, interwoven. Our hearts, Canadian and American, are in the same various states of conviviality with the opposite sex. Our careers, it seemed, suffered the same difficulties. Experiencing our love of the water and it’s wild lands, whether with a double bladed paddle or on the wind, we also shared. Women open their lives to each other as comfortably as opening a newly minted book it seemed. That and chocolate, and good reads, and tea, and candies, and friendship.

July 23rd, Klakish Inlet

July 23 2008
Klakish Inlet
West Side Vancouver Island
For a completely different experience, try Klakish Inlet. The world is a thousand miles away once we made through the skinny spot to get to Klakish Inlet. From the big wide ocean we had to negotiate a very narrow steepsided gorge of 30 yards or so. Within, there was one lake sized power boat, you know, like a ski boat, and I wondered how he made it there. This must have been a favorite place for the Native Americans, very secluded and hidden.
As do many of these inlets, there was a creek draining into it from the head. We took the dinghy at sunset, with the shadows lengthening on the spruce green mountains above. The water was like glass, and we came just as the tide was changing: the eelgrass waved us in and up the creek, and then gently gestured goodbye on our way back to AllyMar.

Winter Harbour Jully 22,2008

First Mates Log
July 22, 2008
Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound
West Side Vancouver Island
The word fishing is synonymous with many places On Van Island, but The Outpost at Winter Harbour has a very high rate of success at catching fish. The dock has a viewing rack apon which the fishermen hang their prize catches for all to see. Mostly men, but we met one woman in the sorriest excuse for a Laundromat/shower who had caught three ‘springs’--Coho salmon. I saw a huge Halibut on the trophy rack and learned later that it weighed 54 pounds. If only I were having such luck!
Winter Harbour is distinguished by a boardwalk that snakes along the northern edge of the harbour. It was from this boardwalk that I got some very incredible Canadian Sea Eagle pictures! I commend and thank Ken for his patience in waiting while I shot a video of a mature bird ripping into a good sized salmon. Oh happy day for Cindy Harper the birdwatcher/photographer!

First Mate’s Log July 22nd, Cape Scott around the top

We awoke at 11 pm to do the passage around the top of Vancouver Island. We decided to do this at night, even though it can be somewhat treacherous, because we needed to leave on an ebb tide, and there wasn’t going to be a morning ebb tide for 4-5 days. We needed a morning ebb tide because in the afternoons the winds or too strong. I was excited and anxious, but ready to do it.
My attire for this evening engagement included leggings, ski pants and off shore bib overalls, 2 pairs of wool socks, rubber boots. Above, I wore a skin tight nylon camisole, long sleeve tee shirt, wool sweater, down vest, water resistant coat and off shore jacket. It has a very stylish high collar, but as for accessories I wore a headband, a wool hat, a polypro neck warmer. Quite the cruising fashion statement.
The moon was gorgeous, the stars were out and we haven’t seen the stars much this trip. The water was glassy---for a short time.
There are two general tide times, neap tides and spring tides. Springtides occur at full and new moon, when the moon and sun exert their greatest effects. Neap tides occur at quarter moon and half moon times. Since we crossed during full moon, the tides were at their strongest.
Ken took a nap at 1 am. We were making very good time since we had the ebb pushing us. Ken had laid in a track in the Garmin GPS to pass north of the Cape, so all I had to do was watch for ships (there were none until morning when we saw a guy-enormous cruise vessel heading north) and verify our position. As we approached the Cape, the seas became confused and erratic. This was due to the tremendous multi-directional movement of water and the effects of wind and waves in that area, and that is what makes capes and other points of land dangerous. We were under the influence of the ebb making the turn over the top of the island, the draining ebb coming down from Queen Charlotte Sound, and the 20 or so knots of wind blowing down from the north.
And it was the wind and the waves that did me in. The two gentleman who had sailed up from Seattle followed us and were within visual range the entire trip. I tried to avoid watching their boat buck and heave, and wished they would put a little more sea room between us. Unfortunately, I had not taken any anti-nausea meds and I became very seasick. Seasickness is compounded by being cold, and I was shivering cold within just a few hours.
I called Ken up at 3:30am and he quickly surmised that the seas would be calmer with more distance from the Cape, so he moved us a few degrees to the northwest and things did moderate some. Good thing he came to life as I am practically non-functional when ill. When we finally headed down, south, the swells and wind were on our tail, something we have been waiting for since someone said ‘lets go north’ and we executed this plan!!
One thing I hold onto when I’m cold and upchucking is something my wise father used to say--”This too will pass.” Though exhausted, we motored into Winter Harbour around 10 in the morning. It turned out to be a glorious day, and we lazed in the sun, drifting in and out of sleep, hearing the snorts and sonorous inhalations of the sea otters who dine heartily on shellfish in Quatsino Sound.