Sunday, November 29, 2009

Back in La Paz BCS



































































November 29, 2009
The following postings were written in the time frame Nov 14 to today. I will try to put some pictures on the blog.
Arrived back in La Paz this afternoon, one day earlier than we planned. Last night was a very rough night with 4 foot swells and 20 knots of wind in the anchorage. No a word about that weather on the SSB during the day and it caught us by surprise. A much more worrisome night than the ones off the coast of California in that the fetch was 15 miles and the surge and swells had some time and distance to build up. Broke te snugger on he anchor rode and had to rely on just the ½” line for windlass relief and strain reduction. Left and had a great sail today with westerlies all day. Sitting here in Marina Palmira which is quite lavish and fancy. Wish I was back in the islands.
Boat chores to put her to sleep for 2 months and then fly home on the 2nd.

November 14, 2009
Left La Paz this morning to go north to the islands. Very difficult time in my setting up moorage for Allymar while I return to Oregon for 2 months. Not sure what it was that I ate, but wokeup in the middle of the night with the problem noone wants to have when traveling. They were so good to me in the office at Marina Palmira. Found me a couch to lie on, took my information from the couch, brought me water and gatoraide and let me just keep the key to the bathroom. All ready to the layup and have my tickets for Oregon on Dec 2nd. On second thought, bet it was the sample food that I ate in the CCC.
What did I do all day on the boat? Slept all the way to Caleta Prieta and most of the rest of the day. I have absolutely no idea what Dean did beyond driving the boat there. Clark and Nina dingy’d over when we go here, but I had no energy to do more than get anchored and put the sail covers on. Hope for a better day tomorrow. Tonight the norther is coming in so that say.

November 15, 2009
A lot better today, still not eating. The bay is filled with boats (power and sail) waiting out the norther. Blew fairly hard last night and today with gusts up to 25 here in the protected bay. Motored around some in the dingy and although got soaked from the swell splash, it was refreshing. Can’t help but hark back to the days on Santa Cruz and in frisco bay where we needed to use foulies to keep from freezing from the spray when out in the dingy in a breeze. Warm and dry has been replaced with warm and OK wet. Spent some time on shore and it was fun to walk in the steps left from my time here last year. I do enjoy returning to places that hold good memories. Watched the kayak parties come in and won der about the couple from Colorado who went on the kayak trip last year in an effort to put some energy back into their marriage. I wished that well and a happy life together. Their intention was good and maybe getting away together was the poultice that they needed.
Planned an afternoon brunch with Russ and Ros, Clark and Nina on Worrel Wind. Maybe a hike before.
The norther continues to blow here. Wind blasts down the anchorage between the east and west openings and spins us all around. Can’t imagine what it is like outside this beautiful place. The fish camps seem 5to have made it through the hurricane rather well, or they have rebuilt them to look like before. One of the rough structures had a TV antenna, solar panel and VHF antenna. These fishermen spend considerable time in these remote camps and return to their base to sell fish and replenish food and salt. I have seen no females fishing.
Interesting crabs here: Fiddler Crabs with one small clawthey use to eat with (the up and down movement like the movement of a bow) and another very large on used for mating. I guess that size matters no matter the difficulty in holding it I saw some males that had one that must have been hard to walk with. They did seem to be proud and carried themselves in a grand manner, clay up and ready.
This is also the nesting and mating grounds for the blue footed booby. Last time I saw one was in San Diego at the going away party where a man was dressed as one with blue shoes and one rather large boob in the middle of his chest.
Looks like we will spend one more night here as the swells and wind have not dropped much.
November 16, 2009
Yep, another day here in Caleta Prieta. A day spent hiking up the northeast wall of the crater to the escarpment at the top with Russ. Fantastic views of this old volcanic crater. A big difference from last year is how green it is due to the recent hurricane. The desert is in bloom with flowers, new green growth and underbrush where last year there was only dirt and rocks. Hiked up a water course where you can just imagine the speed and force of the water than arrives with a hurricane and must find its way downhill. We passed through bolder fields with deep holes that still held water and smooth waves of rock that were like waling on a sidewalk for 100 feet.
The water clarity was not As good as I hoped due to the action of the norther caused swells. Thus snorkeling was not as dramatic. Wish I had an Hawaiian sling.
Will leave here tomorrow.

November 17, 2009
Left Caleta Prieta thast morning and got nowhere at all. Were able to go about 2.9 knots max with pounding and pitching from the residual swell from the norther. Turned around and anchored about 1 mile north in Ensenada Grande. Just like it was last year trying to go north from San Francisco to Evaristo. Allymar and most boats can’t go into the swells without significant difficulty. One of those times where you just stop and go to plan B. Plan B is pretty damm good as Ensenada Grande was excellent water clarity, a wall to snorkel on and a somewhat flat hike. Hiked up the arroyo to some caves filled with shells that fall out of the overhead over time. Leaching out of the substrate over time so give us a sense of time and geologic history. Could also smell sulfur and the water in the lagoon was slightly warm although nothing was mentioned in the cruising guide about hot springs here.
The most common cactus is the Cardon Cactus. It can get to heights of 70 feet snd 4 feet in diameter. Some of them were in bloom and probably relate to the late season hurricane as this is not the blooming season. They are a type of Sargasso and look like sentinels along the ridge tops.
There are only 3 boats in this large anchorage. 1 of which like us went out in the morning and came into here.

November 18, 2009
What a difference a day makes. The swells were almost nonexistent, and the winds were also nonexistent. Thus we had to motor this sailboat north. Prevailing Noserlies again darn. Stopped tonight at a roadsted anchorage at Manglo Solo on San Josed island. Rather spectacular place to anchor. Open to all but the north east and east, with a dramatic view of the sun setting over the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. Turned the island at our back red and orange as the sea turned from blue green to black. Before the sun set I was able to dingy to shore and hike over to the estuary behind the sun spit and once again wished I knew the names of the birds nesting and swimming on the flat salt pond. Another large cactus forest on the shore and the continuing green from the recent hurricane.

November 19, 2009
Woke this morning to the opposite of last nights display of color and light. The mountain range that was dark last evening was decorated with bright yellow light and was able to show off its sedimentary striations to all their splendor. Speaking of splendor, we sailed almost all day today wityh a strong NE wind, slowing backing to N at the end of the day. The non-silence of the boat when just under sail might be loud if not in comparison to the noise of the motor. It’s a swoosh, a swish, a companion sound of hull, rigging and wind than is soothing to me and seems to fall into a rhythm with the rise and fall of Allymar as she rides the swells.
Arrived at Bahia San Marte on the peninsula of Ba Ha. Just around the corner is Bahia Aqua Verde which will be our most northerly destination on this trip inside. In some ways all of these places seem to look the same. The difference is in the feeling of each place. Sand or pebble beaches. Smells coming off the land in the evening (smells that I have never felt before, both pleasant and unpleasant. Will try to find the aroma agent tomorrow as the trip ashore was short tonight.

November 20, 2009
Rough night. Swells out of the north wrapped around Punta San Marte and gave us a rather lumpy, rocky and uncomfortable night. Moved over behing a headlands for better protection from these swells. Was able to look down on the anchorage and the curving of the swells was very apparent from above. As frustrating as it is the opportunity to have thiis LOCAL KNOWLEDGE is part of the learning curve in my sailing encyclopedia. Thus we moved just al little bit and the comfort level is so much better. I have a habit of not anchoring near other boats, I guess to give them their space and not fall into the herd instincve I see often where we need to be close to others for some feeling of comfort and safety. I see it all the time: Large anchorage, 1 boat there and another anchors 100 feet away. Wish I had done that last night.
Hiked a lot and have about 5 possible options for the evening smalls. Will bartbacue the last of the chicken tonight and have it with quinona and grilled veggies. Breakfast was pancakes.

November 21, 2009
Bahia Aqua Verde. Tienda had minimal junk food and no veggies and the restaurant was open but the esposa was not in the la Casida thus we had to suffice with crackers and coke for lunch. Manly food don’t you think. What a delicious feast foe the eyes this bahia. Nestled in behind the reef near a small h with fishing pangas pulled up beyond the high tide line just to port of Allymar. Green water, pelicans (haVe I mentioned pelicans lately) and now to take a shower.

November 23, 2009
The tienda was much better yesterday. Maria was there and the truck from highway 1 had arrived. Was able to purchase veggies, pollo and crackers. No cervesa was availiable and we will have to go short rations until we arrive back at La Paz in a week. There is the slight chance that there will be beer in San Evariso in a couple of days. No wind at all the last 2 days, not even a land or sea breeze early or late in the day. We are presently under way south for either Puerto Los Gatos or San Telmo. Motoring again, but if you don’t motor you do not get anywhere it seems. The sailing here is somewhat like the San Juan’s and Gulf Islands in the variability of winds. We are hoping for a land breeze so left early to hopefully catch it. Capt and crew are falling into a more relaxed lifestyle each day and enjoying the sun and good weather. Having the water close at hand to cool off makes even the most warn and hot days tolerable.

November 23, 2009. 2100 hours
Got the sea breeze. Yahoo.

November 25, 2009
The day before Thanksgiving and I did not remember until someone on the beach today reminded me of that day where we remember and thank the universe for all of the wonderful experiences and opportunities open to us. I must mention at this time that I have no idea why the text is doing something weird on this page. So, here I sit in the cockpit of Allymar in the anchorage at Isla San Francisco under an overcast sky with almost half of a moon peeking through the clouds and almost providing enough light to do this computer by. Shorts and shirt, warm with just a slight breeze out of the north. I am thankful. Outside the anchorage the wind is 18 to 20 with the steep high frequency swells common here when the wind builds from the north. I am thankful to be anchored and calm. Hiked to the ridge this afternoon to look down on the anchorage and was disarmed by the color of the water. Green slowly turning to white as the shore approached and blue as the waters deepened off shore. I am thankful. Sailed from Bahia Los Gatos to Puerto San Evistero yesterday and from there to Isla San Francisco today without any need for the motor. & knots downwind under the twins and reefed main and mizzen. Allymar comes into her own as the wind piped up and keeps her balance and carries us safely to our destination. I am thankful. Caught a skipjack tuna each of ythe last 2 days and enjoyed the bounty of the sea each evening. I am thankful. Doogie McClean on the IPOD and I remember how his music at times matches the beat and time of the swells offshore. I am thankful again. Swaying here at anchor in company with other sailors and their crafts of transport. Meeting new and old friends on the beach and as the dingy’s travel boat to boat. I am thankful. I will be home this time next week with my partner Harp in our home in Oregon. I am and will be thankful. I hope and dream that she will be able to join me enough to really appreciate this area when she comes down here. To miss dinner tomorrow at my brother’s home in Chico is a sadness, but one tempered by memories of past dinners and the idea that we are connected in spirit if not space.
Tomorrow’s travel will be farther south heading to La Paz. Plan is to revisit Ensanada Grande where I was very content and napped in the afternoon. The clarity of the water was excellent for snorkeling and I will have more practice in taking underwater photos.Hopefully this small Norther will continue long enough to push us in a quiet mode on our journey Allymar has been such a good steed for the last (almost) 3 months. Hard to believe it has been that long. Will put her to bed in La Paz for 2 months or so and then ride her again until April 2010.

November 27, 2009
Hanging out here in the islands, Snorkeling, hiking and napping. A lot of fun is being had.

Love to all
Fair winds

Ken

Friday, November 13, 2009

Good news, bad news

Hello from La Paz

Well the good news is that the weather here today and through sunday will be in the 80's with winds in the 10 knot range. The bad news is that the first "norther" of the year is scheduled to arrive just after that. A norther is a cool windy blast coming down the Sea of Cortez from the Colorado plateau. It will change our traval plans to the islands during its duration. Our plan is to go north and homestead a shaltered cove for the duration, and then head north. Worst things could happen as the coves that offer sufficent protection can hold enough boats that we should be not only sheltered but in company of other "beach party" boats. Hunker down. party and have fun ah. Today is provisioning, sightseeing and enjoying the great weather we have.
I will be able to post again on November 30 as there are no towns or electronic options in the islands. Fantastic. Harp has made my airline connections and I will be back in oregon on dec 3rd.
Had a good reunion with the three gorls from Don Quixote yesterday. They are a yearolder but just as sweet and communicative as last year (well 2 of them are, but that was the way it was last year also)

Thursday, November 12, 2009

La Paz






















Writing that in La Paz which is about 100 miles north from Cabo and a world apart in additude and comfort for me. What a difference to be in a place wher the local people live and the place is not filled up with tourists drinking beer etc. Coming north from Cabo we stopped at Bahia los Frailes and Ensenada Los Muertos. Both beautiful bays with sandy beaches and opportunity to walk and get off the boat for a while. Los Muertos has a restruant (restruant 1535) that is named after the datre that Cortez srrived there. The reason for the restryant is the gringo golf coouse and club situated there. 1 grand a night to stay in the club condo wow. The water is the most striking shade of blue and you can see rather large fish swimming below the boat. The sight of rays surfacing and jumping into the air is a startling experience the first time you see it.
To get back to Cabo again; there was a radio call out from a boater who stated how glad he was to leave, and the call was echoed by 3 other boats.
So where from here: We will leave on sat and head north to the islands and see how far we can get and arrive back here on December the first. I hope to get to Laredo if possible. Both Dean and I have agreed that hurring along to see more places is not as good as quality enjoyment where we do go. I will be flying home to Oregon and Harp on Dec 2.

Thursday, November 05, 2009

Hello from Cabo We made it didn't we







October 25, 2009
Tried to post something three times and the Howard Johnson web site would not allow me to do it. The nerve of them!! Hopefully Harp was able to post something for me. Today is the big party at West Marine where all of us (700) to meet the folks. Tomorrow is the big day to leave at 1100.

October 27, 2009

Put our anchor down not in Turtle bay a expected, but rather in Bahia San Quentin. There was a rather big swell out in the pacific and all but the hard core racers came here. It was a bit snotty especially with the swell lifting and transom and constantly spilling all of the wind out of the sails. Rock and rolling that made both of the crew quite sea sick. Based upon prior experience I went out of my way to remind them of the importance of both eating and drinking even if that is only a temporary input to their body. At the same time I have to remember that I m not their keeper and as adults they can ans should make good decisions. That is something they both do, but I am “always the pop” in my own mind.

We had to motor 1/3rd of the way the San Quintin, as the wind finally went away (at a level that will move Allymar 12 knots). I look forward to getting to cruising grounds where I can leave or stay according to my and not a schedule of the rally. Positive notes on being able to finally get the ham radio working and can communicate with other ham’s and SSB users on boats. The problem was a loose connection and not a big grounding or antenna/counterpoise problem.

Writing this as we passage to Turtle Bay. Great winds although the swells are still present. Bad news in that a J 120 was attacked by a whale as they left San Qunitin and as a result JWorld was lost. All 5 hands were picked up by Coast Guard chopper and are safe and well in San Diego. They had 7 minutes to get off the boat into the liferaft, set off the EPRIP and had a horrible time in a swamped and wet raft. First boat lost in the history of the Ha Ha. Puts a note of caution and awareness of the fact we are in a less forgiving environment that on land and must be ready to make decisions that are and can be lifesaving. My heart goes out to them.
As for this moment I was just out on deck, the moon is out, looking down the swells is like a canyon that moves taking you with it. Swells are scheduled to be 20-25t on 12-14 second intervals and they are that.

October 30. 2009
Turtle Bay, lights of all the anchored boats as backdrop to warm windy Mexican nights. We will leave tomorrow for Bahia Santa Maria 235 nautical miles down the coast. As we spent the extra night in San Qunitin our time here was too short. Did not have the time to go to the night of the dead celebration in town as I did last year. Did make it to the beach party and yes did drink and eat too much. 700 people on a beach with similar intention is a sight. Was able to put faces with the voices I heard on the radio. Lots of chatter on the radio as the long night of watches passes.
Was able to fix the jammed mizzen halyard using climbing gear. Pulled the mizzen down the other night in big swells and a rolling boat and the halyard was pulled sideways. The other problem is a small fuel leak in the engine room which will take much more fixing. A job for La Paz I expect.
The next passage will be 2 nights and 3 days. To be honest I would like better a slower passage down the outside of Ba Ha. There are anchorages we are missing. But, this venue made it easier to find crew. Doubt I will ever come this way again on my own boat, and might try to find myself a crew position in the future for a more slow transit. This time I have a commitment to my crew and Dean who will meet me in Cabo to keep on the schedule. If it was not for that, I would bag the Ha Ha. At the same time I am having fun.
If anyone reading this wants to talk about the pros and cons lets do so.

November 1, 2009
Wow, November is here. We have been on the water for 2 months, and 1 more to go to see Harp again. This is the second of 2 nights offshore traveling to Bahia Santa Maria. Last night was perfect except for a lack of enough wind and Harp being here. Smooth seas, almost full moon, warm weather (almost T shirt and shorts) and the twinkling lights all around of fellow sailors. What a splendid night to remember. Played Hawaiian slack key guitar on the I Pod ™, and stood and looked around. Was not a night to sit in the cockpit and just watch to make sure the windvane was steering the correct course. Based upon the radio chatter, I was not the only one with this feeling of a special night. When I wonder why I put up with the confused seas, cold nights and windless days, I need to remember last night.

November 2, 2009
Anchored in Bahis Santa Maria. Wish I could stay here for a week and walk the sands, climb the hills and play Frisbee ™ with sea dollars. They are the biggest I have ever seen anywhere and more plentiful than at Westport Washington. At night the anchorage is full of all the anchor lights of the fleet as there is no city here. What a lonely, beautiful place is Santa Maria.

November 5, 2009
Should be in Cabo in about 4 hours. Can see Capo Falso with Cabo just around the corner. Another special night last night. My watch was 12 -3 and I did not want it to end. Other sailors with thousands of miles under their keels, said on the radio this morning that they can’t remember a better night and that it would go into their memory bank as one of the special ones. Occasionally there is a meeting of seas, wind, weather and attitude that together is bigger and more emotional than the separate parts. We have had some of those the last few nights. It has little to do with safety, distance from land or the completion of your journey.. It is a connection with the boat, the seas and the universe that I am not poet enough to describe. I just enjoy it and leave the rest to the wordsmiths. Saw my first green flash the night of the 4th. Just as the sun disappeared, a lava lamp like bubble of green bubbled to the surface for a nanosecond. Seeing your first akes you look harder for the other surprises that the heavens have in store for you.

Hello from Cabo We nade it didn't we

October 25, 2009
Tried to post something three times and the Howard Johnson web site would not allow me to do it. The nerve of them!! Hopefully Harp was able to post something for me. Today is the big party at West Marine where all of us (700) to meet the folks. Tomorrow is the big day to leave at 1100.

October 27, 2009

Put our anchor down not in Turtle bay a expected, but rather in Bahia San Quentin. There was a rather big swell out in the pacific and all but the hard core racers came here. It was a bit snotty especially with the swell lifting and transom and constantly spilling all of the wind out of the sails. Rock and rolling that made both of the crew quite sea sick. Based upon prior experience I went out of my way to remind them of the importance of both eating and drinking even if that is only a temporary input to their body. At the same time I have to remember that I m not their keeper and as adults they can ans should make good decisions. That is something they both do, but I am “always the pop” in my own mind.

We had to motor 1/3rd of the way the San Quintin, as the wind finally went away (at a level that will move Allymar 12 knots). I look forward to getting to cruising grounds where I can leave or stay according to my and not a schedule of the rally. Positive notes on being able to finally get the ham radio working and can communicate with other ham’s and SSB users on boats. The problem was a loose connection and not a big grounding or antenna/counterpoise problem.

Writing this as we passage to Turtle Bay. Great winds although the swells are still present. Bad news in that a J 120 was attacked by a whale as they left San Qunitin and as a result JWorld was lost. All 5 hands were picked up by Coast Guard chopper and are safe and well in San Diego. They had 7 minutes to get off the boat into the liferaft, set off the EPRIP and had a horrible time in a swamped and wet raft. First boat lost in the history of the Ha Ha. Puts a note of caution and awareness of the fact we are in a less forgiving environment that on land and must be ready to make decisions that are and can be lifesaving. My heart goes out to them.
As for this moment I was just out on deck, the moon is out, looking down the swells is like a canyon that moves taking you with it. Swells are scheduled to be 20-25t on 12-14 second intervals and they are that.

October 30. 2009
Turtle Bay, lights of all the anchored boats as backdrop to warm windy Mexican nights. We will leave tomorrow for Bahia Santa Maria 235 nautical miles down the coast. As we spent the extra night in San Qunitin our time here was too short. Did not have the time to go to the night of the dead celebration in town as I did last year. Did make it to the beach party and yes did drink and eat too much. 700 people on a beach with similar intention is a sight. Was able to put faces with the voices I heard on the radio. Lots of chatter on the radio as the long night of watches passes.
Was able to fix the jammed mizzen halyard using climbing gear. Pulled the mizzen down the other night in big swells and a rolling boat and the halyard was pulled sideways. The other problem is a small fuel leak in the engine room which will take much more fixing. A job for La Paz I expect.
The next passage will be 2 nights and 3 days. To be honest I would like better a slower passage down the outside of Ba Ha. There are anchorages we are missing. But, this venue made it easier to find crew. Doubt I will ever come this way again on my own boat, and might try to find myself a crew position in the future for a more slow transit. This time I have a commitment to my crew and Dean who will meet me in Cabo to keep on the schedule. If it was not for that, I would bag the Ha Ha. At the same time I am having fun.
If anyone reading this wants to talk about the pros and cons lets do so.

November 1, 2009
Wow, November is here. We have been on the water for 2 months, and 1 more to go to see Harp again. This is the second of 2 nights offshore traveling to Bahia Santa Maria. Last night was perfect except for a lack of enough wind and Harp being here. Smooth seas, almost full moon, warm weather (almost T shirt and shorts) and the twinkling lights all around of fellow sailors. What a splendid night to remember. Played Hawaiian slack key guitar on the I Pod ™, and stood and looked around. Was not a night to sit in the cockpit and just watch to make sure the windvane was steering the correct course. Based upon the radio chatter, I was not the only one with this feeling of a special night. When I wonder why I put up with the confused seas, cold nights and windless days, I need to remember last night.

November 2, 2009
Anchored in Bahis Santa Maria. Wish I could stay here for a week and walk the sands, climb the hills and play Frisbee ™ with sea dollars. They are the biggest I have ever seen anywhere and more plentiful than at Westport Washington. At night the anchorage is full of all the anchor lights of the fleet as there is no city here. What a lonely, beautiful place is Santa Maria.

November 5, 2009
Should be in Cabo in about 4 hours. Can see Capo Falso with Cabo just around the corner. Another special night last night. My watch was 12 -3 and I did not want it to end. Other sailors with thousands of miles under their keels, said on the radio this morning that they can’t remember a better night and that it would go into their memory bank as one of the special ones. Occasionally there is a meeting of seas, wind, weather and attitude that together is bigger and more emotional than the separate parts. We have had some of those the last few nights. It has little to do with safety, distance from land or the completion of your journey.. It is a connection with the boat, the seas and the universe that I am not poet enough to describe. I just enjoy it and leave the rest to the wordsmiths. Saw my first green flash the night of the 4th. Just as the sun disappeared, a lava lamp like bubble of green bubbled to the surface for a nanosecond. Seeing your first akes you look harder for the other surprises that the heavens have in store for you.