Making our way

June 27,2008 Squirrel Cove Cortes Island
I believe Vancouver named this island Cortes after the Spanish captain he met when they were both doing surveys to claim the land for their own countries.
The day turned sunny and quite warm after an almost winterish day yesterday, raining and cool. We stayed in and read then as the rain let up took the dinghy and motored over to Laura Cove. The intertidal zones are a linear display of yellow and brownish greens from the kelp. There are clumps of oysters everywhere, and they far out number the mussels unlike the Oregon coast where we don’t have any preponderance of oysters. The water is very clean and there is no trash, very pristine, but many areas are affected by red tide and you cannot harvest any clams, mussels or oysters.
We went ashore here on Melanie Cove. It’s very verdant and felt much like the Oregon Coast with it’s depth of sword ferns and density of conifers, minus the Redwoods. How fortunate we are to have our towering giant Redwoods! Also make note of BC’s own variety of slug, unlike our banana slug, theirs has a giraffe’s spots!

Made a pit stop as we left Desolation Sound and actually sailed! Across to Refuge Cove on West Redonda Island. This is a year round community that is very laid back and tourist friendly. Ken thought I might want a burger (I think they call that projection so we each had a $12 hamburger that I guess was worth it. They had no internet there--I was hoping to post to the blog.
We had met some people in LUND who lived their working lives in Medford, but moved to Friday Harbor a few years ago and just joined a sailing club--their up here with some other boaters. They know Roger Vanderbeek well. Don and Mary. We chatted with them at lunch--all about boating of course.
The beauty is spectacular here--reminds me somewhat of Glacier National Park with a salty twist. Lots of boats around but not too many. The woman at the Refuge Cove store said it will really be busy in July and August. Just now I saw 2 Black Oystercatchers--no surprise they would be here! They have outstandingly prominent long reddish orange thick bills, as one would expect they would need. A family of Canada Geese and their young just paddled by. And most touching to me, I heard the brief and distant call of the Loon. I just spied a kitty cat on a cute little power boat from Oregon no less.
Ken spent quite a bit of time pouring over the charts to get us through the notorious Yuculta and Dent Rapids, which we will be leaving for at 6 in the morning. Thank God for these long days! There is no good close staging area, and so we must travel 25 miles tomorrow to be there at slack ebb at 12:45. We will have an ebb against us, and we need to do 6 knots. Stay tuned!

Anchoring 101-104

Had an unanticipated very challenging course in anchoring at Copeland Islands just north of here. We dinghied around to a very pretty little horseshoe bay just around the corner from where we had anchored on the Malaspina side of the island. There was a sailboat, tucked in the center, but when we motored around the next day it was gone. It had looked an easy place to settle back into, but as we were doing so the wind came up a bit and kept pushing us to the rocky steps at the northwestern edge of the opening. Ken took a stern line to shore and had to work hard not only traipsing over the sharp-as-diamonds barnacled rocks, but fighting the wind and our full keel to haul the boat in at a proper angle and position. No sooner did he return to the boat when the wind freshened more, and we could see that we were too far outside of the inlet. So I took the dinghy to shore and let go the stern line and we returned to the other side of the island and our previous anchorage.
There were 2 boats there now, and we pulled up in front of them and could see that neither had a stern line, so we just headed up into the wind, and dropped anchorin front of them in about 50 feet of water. We were head on to about 20 knots of wind, and the first time the anchor didn’t set but we tried it again and with about 200 feet of scope out we got a good set. Good thing too because it blew all night. On our night time potty breaks we both went on deck to check our position. We were holding fast, though I was more concerned about our swing than anything else.

I spent some time doing an eye splice on the deck line, though I’m going to need some more time to perfect it. I also whipped the ends with the French Whip, which is oh so simple as well as elegant. I’m going to whip the bobstay at the bottom of the bowsprit, as the anchor chain will eventually chafe it. Should look terrific and functional too.

We came up the Malaspina Straight, gateway to Desolation Sound, noticing vapors out of the exhaust pipe. The engine was running fine, so after Ken’s investigation at Westview (a lovely vacation spot, see photos) and consultation of the diesel for mariners book figured the Yanmar just needed a valve adjustment. We are awaiting the Yanmar mechanic here in LUND BC to do just that. LUND is the end of the road, the multinational North American continent spanning, West Coast artery road Highway 101. A block of ice costs $3.50 Canadian here, so I am ready for 5 dollar bread at Nancy’s bakery. Actually I got 6 big cinnomin rolls--day old--for 6 bucks!

Smuggler's Cove, mainland BC

On to a more natural setting, we continued north to this special hideout, Smuggler's Cove. It was absolutely gorgeous and pristine, but I think I'll be saying that a lot in the next weeks and will have to come up with some new modifiers.

This hidden anchorage was used by bootleggers to cache their spirits as they smuggled it down the coast back in the 1800's

There are other boaters around, but it is not yet crowded.

We took our dinghy on to shore to stretch our sailor's legs and get a little exercise.

Nanaimo

Nanaimo! (Nah-ny-mo) Gateway to the east side of Vancouver Island and points north! It's a lovely cosmopolitan marina haven. There is a lot of money here, big 80 foot cruising yachts with dark windows. Funny thing, you never actually see peple on the mega-yachts, I think they just sit inside and enjoy watching people walk by open mouthed staring at their monster-wealth.But down on the common docks, everyone is friendly and in good spirits. Ofcourse I unabashedly meet all the dog people. Bailey's (see photo) people were divinely guided to our dock just so I could snuggle with his sweetness. You can see from the photo that he knew his entire purpose in coming to Nanaimo and he couldn't wait to meet me!! Even Ken had a moment of doggy interest and Bailey obliged him.

Dodd Narrows and on to Nanaimo, Vancouver Island

In order to get to Nanaimo, you have to pass through one of the narrowest funnels between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland, Dodd Narrows. For boats like ours, it is imperative that we transit the Narrows at slack water, meaning the time between the flood inward tide and the ebb outward tide. The whole of the sea that moves around the southern half of Vancouver Island passes through this narrow waterway, creating turbulence and high speed flows, up to 8 knots of more. We passed through easily at slack tide.

Once we passed through Dodd Narrows, it was another 90 minute motor sail to Nanaimo. A special treat awaited us, Canada's brand new ferry, the Vancouver 2010. It was beautiful to see, but ofcourse we always keep an eye all ferries, as they move much faster than you might think for there size. In case of a collision. ferry 1, Allymar 0!

Bitches Blog: DeCourcy Island

One of the Canadian Gulf Islands, DeCourcy has a nice little anchorage called Pirates Cove. We've been here a few times before. There is a treasure chest, symbolic of the Cove's wilder past, that boaters have enjoyed decorating with costume jewlery. However when we arrived this time, the treasure chest was gone--and know one could tell us why. It was quite a dissapointment as we had saved up our bangles and baubles for the past two years! Ken brought the bag of trinklets to the Island and instead displayed them on the plaque commemorating the island as a Marine Park. Perhaps we started a new ritual! Map graciously provided by John Kimantas of WildCoast.ca

If you look closely at the map, you'll see Pylades Channel towards the top. DeCourcy is a tiny unlabeled island near there.

Getting wet

We are in Nanaimo B.C. enjoying the good weather and this fine city. Had a couple of boat jobs to do and they are finished and now to relax. The head holding tank was the messy one and the zinc for the propeller shaft was the wet one. Very important to get wet for one and keep dry for the other and I did it correctly thank goodness. Harp said to have someone take pictures of me in the water doing the prop shaft and put them in the blog. Hope they come. Although it takes up a fair amount of room to have a wet suit with us, it was worth it. The reason for the replacement of the zinc on the shaft was that it was removed by the line from the crab pot we picked up off the coast of Oregon. Glad to finally have that behind us. The zinc is used as a sacracifial metal to corrode rather than the metal of the boat itself. Salt water, stray electrical charges lead to electrical corrosion

Tomorrow we will leave Nanaimo for Desolation Sound and points farther north.

Fair winds

Ken

Finally "Canada"

Plans (all plans it seems) change with time and weather. Our plans have changed and we are finally in warm weather and do not have the wind, waves and currents on the nose. Tried to sail agound Cape Beale to Barkley Sound and up the west side of Vancouver Ialand and just could not make it with any comfort. The reality was that we could expect more of that weather and sailing conditions all the way up the outside and it made no sense to continue. Turned around and sailed down the Strait of Juan De Fuca and will now go up the unside passage and down the outside of Vancouver Island (counter clockwise). What a joy to have winds on our stern pushing us rather than thrashing into them. What a joy to go from 40 to 50 degrees to sunshine and sunscreen.

We are in Nanaimo B.C. and will push off across the Straits of Georgia for Pender Harbor and up to Desolation Sound on thursday. I spent my 60th birthday here 2 years ago and both of us find it to be a very pleasant city. Harp continues to take great pictures which I am sure she will share.

Fair winds and lemonade in the afternoon

Ken

Westport gulls

Can't have too many pictures.

The one legged gull is well fed--this platform is right next to the returning charter boat's dock. They throw him a nice fillet of catch-of-the-day, everyday!

Lighthouse is the tallest in Washington.

Sailus Interrupticus

No one knows better than those who make their living by the sea that weather rules your life and livlihood. Fortunately for us, this series of low pressure storms is just a minor inconvienence, but we are trying to avoid bordom just the same. Can't remember the last time we watched a movie before noon. If I eat one more piece of saltwater taffy I'll probably pull a filling out!

We need about 30 hours of good weather and we'll make a dash for Vancouver Island. We're shooting for Saturday, but our fate is in Neptune's hands.

Here are a few shots of Westport to keep you all entertained.

Harp

Close Encounters of the Coast Guard Kind

I am now able to get into the blog. Some of you have received this already via an email I sent, so this is for the others.

Hello Everyone! This is Harp aka Cindy emailing from Westport WA.We've had waaay too much fun already!
Second day out we were near Lookout Point south of Tillamook Bay when someone on watch (guess who?) picked up an unwanted passenger who wrapped himself to the propeller, stopping us dead and sending us adrift. The tag-a-long in question was a crab pot. For those who don't know, crabbers send crab pots to the ocean floor at about 20-60 fathoms with a line to the surface supported by floats. They are notoriously difficult to see and amazingly easy to catch even in the wide wide ocean.
I had been on deck centering up the staysail when I stood up and saw the floats go by right next to the hull, disappear, and didn't re-appear. I quickly put the engine in neutral but by then the damage had been done.
At this point we called the Coast Guard and the cowboys of the sea were on scene within 20 minutes. After much guy type work--grappling the line and sawing through it with a dive knife, they freed the line from the pot. We had hoped to reconnect it to the floats thus saving the pot and it's catch for the owner, but due to the heavy current were unable to do so.
We were still unable to maneuver so the CG ran a bridle back to our windlass and towed us to Tillamook. Their cutter was capable of at least 30-40 knots, but they had to tow us at our maximum hull speed of 6 and a half knots. Must have felt like a snails pace to them but we were flying!
Up to this point we had been motor sailing, as the winds had been primarily on our nose with some deviation out of the west. The new Yanmar diesel ran admirably but Ken is somewhat disappointed in the RPM's and thus increased fuel usage to get us to cruising speed.
We spent the night in Girabaldi, a small fishing town in Tillamook Bay. Even before we stepped off the dock everyone knew what had happened to us because they all monitor channel 16 on the VHF and overheard the entire 'drama' and communication with the CG. Though we were deep in fisher/crabber country, and we had just destroyed the gear of one man's livelihood, they were as helpful and friendly as they could be.
The next morning Ken went to get a diver to free the polypropylene line from the prop and shaft (it was not only wound around but twisted) but at dockside I was able to reach over with the boat hook and fairly quickly free it. Absolved and redeemed!
We have had a wonderful crewman aboard for this first leg of the journey due to the potential for a rough passage. Bob is a 72 yr old former fisherman and logger who just likes being out on the sea. I suspect that he won't forget his 72nd birthday as that was the day we hooked the crab pot! I told him that if he ever needed a recommendation as a crew member I would give him high marks--easygoing, not a complainer, eats whats prepared for him and a good watchman to boot! Thank-you Bob, we'll miss your company.
We left Tillamook Bay around 2pm on Tuesday and didn't expect to be in Gray's Harbor until Thursday. But because of light winds and some great current as we passed the Columbia Bar, we actually made it here an entire day ahead of time. We had originally planned to stop in Neah Bay, but we had an incident with our black water holding tank and Gray's Harbor has a marine supplier whereas Neah Bay does not. The holding tank had to be removed (that is a story for a different entry) thus we are waiting for the new one to come in today.
We plan to take off tomorrow Friday and it should be another over night run to there.
Not sure when we'll write again. Don't intend on sending out emails like this in the future so don't worry about getting them on going.
Thank-you for everyone's support in making our dream a reality. We are both doing well, though I'd pay 5 bucks for a hot tub to warm my cold damp bones.
Cindy/Harp on sv Allymar

Going up the coast

We are in Westport Washington (Grays Harbor) for a few days to have a new holding tank for the head shipped in from who knows where. Left Winchester Bay on the start of the ebb (just about as much chop as i ever want to see on a river bar), sailed north and had an unexpected stop in Tillamock Bay the next day. I will let Harp fill in the details of the stop. It was good to see and cross a new river bar and once again revel in the friendliness of small town Oregon and the boating community.

Coming up the coast against the wind and current has been a slog to weather, but Allymar is doing great and we are adjusting slowly to the rythums of our new life. Hope to leave on the evening flood tomorrow to go to Neah Bay Washington if the tank arrives.

Bob (our crew up to Westport) was a great person to have on board. Doing 4 hour watches with 8 hours off is so much better than back to back 3 hour. Bob's pace and personality as well as his ability to impart to Harp lessons in sailing were very appreciated by me. To learn from someone not your husband is needed isn't it.

Will update as possible. Internet access is spotty.

Ken

What the heck are Ken and Harp doing

Hello friends.

This is Ken. This message is to the many people who have asked why there have not been any updates on this blog. Well, I just did not feel that "non sailing just working on the boat" was important enough to post. Here goes.

On the home front most of the large items are stored in the trailer. We are sleeping on the floor on a futon mattress and out clothes are in boxes. So far we are not to the point of eating out of the pot we cooked in (remember those college days!)

The fitting out of the boat continues. Inside work predominating during the frequent Oregon rains (sure have better weather in the Rogue Valley than the coast). Radios are in and wired, autopilot is ready for sea trials, head has been serviced and all compartments can now be secured. Possibly we will upgrade to a propane stove to replace the current alcohol one due to the high cost of alcohol (due to the diversion of food crops to ethanol and rising prices)

Outside the mast steps are on, bulwarks are painted, sails have been run up and down, monitor windvane control lines attached, lifelines replaced, cockpit cover back in place and secured, secondary anchor ready with divided anchor locker etc. Hew diesel runs good but the stuffing box needs to be adjusted. I have learned that any boat job will take 4 times as long as I expect, I will drop tools and parts either in the bilge or the water, and involve significant salty language. Attached is a picture of Ken working in the aft compartment attending to the water lift muffler and the stuffing box which is under it. Compare that to the inside picture of sewing a hatch cover.

We will try to be more timely and frequent in these posts.

Departure date is May 23 with the first port of call being Neah Bay Washington. We are looking for 1 crewperson to join us on the trip up the coast. If you are interested.......

Ken and Harp

New Diesel for Allymar

The old Volvo's habit of leaving a trail of oil might of worked as breadcrumbs on a trail, but was not at all helpful in the water (and a big polluter). Re-power was the answer, with a new Yanmar 30 horse. Removing the old Volvo and replacing it was accomplished by using the mizzen boom (with support from the spreaders) and a block and tackle. Up and over the lifelines she came without putting a hole in the bottom of the boat. Paul Mc Donald (a retired La Grande, Oregon John Deere mechanic) made it all happen. Thanks you so much Paul. Thanks also to the weather gods who gave up 3 days of cold but clear weather in January.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL

Our desire is that everyone has a happy and healthy holiday season 2007. May you find in the New Year that all of your wishes have come true, your loves are manifest, and your zest for life to be buoyant.

Ken and Cindy (aka goose and harp)

Summer Cruise 2007 Finally, Tatoosh Island to Port.

Summer cruise 2007

Summer cruise 2007

Due to the need to continue working and (with difficulty) accepting that Allymar was not ready for a lengthly cruise, our plans changed to a short month long summer cruise only. The main goal was to get her down to the coast of Oregon where we could more easily do the final fitting out.

Highlights of this summer were the opportunity to tie up in front of the Empress Hotel in Victoria B.C, finally putting Tatoosh Island to port and the trip down the coast dodging storms and crew sea sickness. We stopped at Neah Bay and Grays Harbor Washington to yearn for northwesterlies and wait out 40 knot southerlies. We were allowed to sit around with other storm bound sailors watching the weatherfax and listening to the radio. Of significant help was the one boat with a "router" to give him advise (which we all benifited from). For the first time we were really introduced to the "sailing fraternity" and how everyone helps each other. Do wonder how the trip down the coast was for the big Swan that left on the worst day as they needed to get to San Francisco for the big boat series.

The final 24 hours offshore was in the fog and to see the fog lift and the lighthouse appear as we approached the Unpqua bar was so beautiful and inspiring. We became well versed in Radar and GPS plotting. Seeing those large blips appear on the screen and to be able to plot their course and speed was an experience. You know that the ship was there, but never saw it took some getting ued to and accepting technology. Sure wish that crab pots gave a better radar image, as they are everywhere.
Allymar sits today in Winchester Bay Oregon at the mouth of the Unpqua River awaiting final fitting out.

Employers have been given notice and in late May we will be waiting for southerlies and a trip back up the coast. The plan is to circumnavigate Vancouver Island and maybe go to the Queen Charlottes before heading back down south for Mexico in the fall. We both are not really looking forward to the trip up coast (against the current and prevailing winds) as it has the reputation of being a harsh mistress.

More to come.

February 2007

Although we are not yet on the water (plan is still for early summer 07) the fitting out continues.

Ken spent 5 days on the boat in Jan 07. Got as much done as the wearther permitted.

We purchased the following items:
Monitor Windvane.
Garmin 18 radar and new chart screen.
Viking liferaft.
Honda outboard for the dingy.
Wind and water-towed DC generator.
SSB radio and load the aft stay, and attach dynaplate as counterpoise.
EPRIB.

The potential loose lower rudder gudgeon is being repaired. The extra battery bank will be fitted in April. Hopefully the dryrot on the bulwarks will have been attended to by then also.

Ken will be on the boat for a week in April to do as much as possible to get Allymar ready.

Nothing but dollars flying out of the wallet. Thank goodness for the Seattle boat show which gave us some very good discounts.

Ken