Journey of the Allymar

Allymar hauling out in La Paz

2011-04-09T19:40:00.000-07:00

Hola

When I flew into La Paz in October of last year it was refreshing to see Allymar sitting there in the yard as we flew over the marina. Now she sits there again and the big question now is which side of the plane I will need to be on to see her as I fly out. Put her on the hard yesterday and spent the night up on solid ground (althouth 12 feet up in the guess air) for the first time in quite a while. Suprisingly the boat seemed to be moving still as I adjusted to the lack of movement. Getting to the travel lift was the usual difficult maueuver as the old girl just does not back up well. I do like having a mizzen mast but times like the travel lift backing in and lack of a place to put solar panels makes me yern for a cutter rig.

Now that I am putting her up and remember all of the many tasks to do so, I guess that lack of memory is a survival mechanism.

Luckily I am not alone as there are 3 other boat slaves doing the same as me. Gives us something else to talk about rather than sailing stories

Ken

April 8th

2011-04-08T19:28:00.000-07:00

Found these three pictures when I was going through the mess seeing what to keep. They represent the best and worst of the time I have spent here. The best is the meal in San Evistro at the restruante of a locasl fishing family. Two tables, a palapa roof and you can have anything you want to eat, as long as it was fish, rice and beans (plus cervesa). She was out of fish and had to send her daughter down to the boat to get one to cook. Prfetty good and fresh. To see Steve and Claudia again after a year, and sit with Tom who we were buddy boating with (Dean took the picture) made it all better.

Ah, the worst. Working on your boat in exotic places. The 40 year old deck was fast going south in the hot sun and needed immediate repair. A 10 grand or more new deck was out of the querstion. The solution for now is a pl=olymer rubber based roofing paint to seal and pprotect what is left. I have it on fairly good referral that it works OK in the short term (3-5 years)

Harp (that water dog of a girl) swimming in the bay at Tenacatica. Hard to keerp her out of the water.

Great vista on the east side of Isla Partita. Good hike up the dry wash and over the saddle on the other side.

Gonna haul Allymar out tomorrow and continue the process of putting her away for 7 months.

Wondering on April 1st 2011

2011-04-01T19:10:00.000-07:00

Crocolile in San Blas Bird in the estuary in San Blas

Gringo's doing what gringo's do Allymar in the sparkles

Don't poop on the beach

Me eating pasta with my garlic pressure cooker bread

Bringing in a fish on the hand line

What a great Yellow tail tuna

Well, here I am back in La Paz B.C.S. winding down my trip and stay in Mexico. Iyt has been a great time and adventure the past 5 months traveling both in the Sea of Cortez and mainland Merxico on the west coast since October of 2010. I am ready to go home and resume my real life with memories that will last forever. I have mixed feelings with doing this without my wife Harp (doing it alone with crew etc) balanced against the many wonderful experiences and challenges that were met and surpassed. I have to thank her for this opportunity to travel while she stayed home and worked. I also must thank my wonderful mother who saved my first kindergarten finger painting which was of a sailboat. She also reminded of the many times I made boats out of scrap wood that always had a sail. As I plan for next year the need to maintain focus on what I want foe the rest of my like is most important. Sailing is like life, once you loose your focus it is so easy to get off course. It is remarkable how good an autopilot and windvane steers Allymar, never getting tired, needing a bathroom break or whinning about something. I have tendencies to put my life on autopilot, a thing that does not work for us organic vessels. I have once again learned to not trust the instruments. To look, feel the wind on my cheek and feel the motion on Allymar. To not envy the yacht that passed us, or the large one with microwave and a dishwasher. Thay have their own problems and my life is all that I can handle right now. So, as I remember and ponder the last months of fun and life, it seems like going into a northger when I am trying to go north. Than happyness is always just one step behind frustration. The sunsets and sunrises were great although there was no green flash this year. The small towns and slow anchorages were quiet and fulfilling. The Mexical people are so industrious and capable with so little in comparison to us rich northamericanos. I will try to remember to say hello, good by and thank you to the people I deal with back home. Those few words are spoken all the time and not just as a rote thing. Smiles and communications were extendedto me all the time in ways not seen in the US. Sailing made me appreciate the unexpected. To change plans for safety, smooth sailing or just to go somewhere else became easy. There was always another day to get to that harbor and the place we did go to was usually a pleasant suprise and had hidden gems of wonder. Many time I wrote in my log that we up-anchored and had a ????? as to where we were going. hard to cast something in ce3ment on the water eh. Speaking of instruments (earlier in this message I was) that wind indicator on the top of the mast that was supposed to tell me the direction of the wind was sold to me incorrectly. It is actually a directional pointer telling us the way to go. We sure had noserlies a lot especially coming northg from Barra de Navidad. I saw the southern cross, made a correct sun sight with the sextant and worked out our position with the sight reduction tables, drank too much cervesa and usually ate good. I made new and revisited with old friends. Hopefully to see them again on the seas. I will be heading home on the 14th of April, and expect the rain to stop (did you hear that rain gods). As to next season, who knows.

As for now it is time to play out one of the truisms of sailing "Having the opportunity to work on your boat in fun and interesting locations".

Fair winds and an exciting life to all Ken

Back in San Blas

2011-03-13T14:48:00.000-07:00

Hola from San Blas

Arrived back here the other day heading back north. There are times that I wish to be more connected to the news of the world than I am now. To hear of the devistation in Japan was saddening to me both from a personal and practical perspective. From a practical and safety perspective, it would have been great to know that the tsunami wave hitting the coast here was due to arrive at the same time we crossed the bar into the estuary of San Blas. Thankfully it was only 2 foot as the constricted opening to the harbour and shallow depth would heighten any serious wave. For some reason time tyc was not given to mariners. We had been anchored in the large Mantachen Bay south of the harbour and it was suggested we should move to the harbour as there was a potential of some heightened wave. Called on the radio and noone came back with any information for our location. Later on we found out that the marinas in La Crus, PV, Cabo and many anchorages were warned and boaters left and went out and motored around in the deep bays. Luckily the wave was only 2 foot hight and posed no danger to us. How many mariners can say they rode a tsunami (even a little one). It was very interesting to look out to starboard and see the ways line as far as we could see into the distance. It was also very interesting to see all of the people on the roofs of the building and observation towers looking out to see to watch it and us come in.
Heard about Crescent City and Brookings damage and hopefully no fatalities. Pictures on the internet of Japan very sad. nature in all of her majesty can be crewel and thoughtless. I am not following the story and hope that aftershocks are minimal and loss of life in small. Japan always seeme3d to be prepared for earthquakes better than most countries.
Leaving tomorrow for mazatlan and thre big cith. Spend time there and head to the sea for the final wrap up prior to La Paz and heading home on April 14th. I am really ready to get home and off the boat for the season. It has been fun but enough is enough (without Harp here).
Hopefully can post some pictures of the travels today

Hasta Luego

Ken

Photos from Barra and environs

2011-02-28T21:03:00.001-08:00

Resting under the sunshade in Tenacatita Bay

Getting ready to dive on the boat for a bottom cleaning

Ken and friend Parky never missing an opportunity to fool around

Making tortillas on the boat

Harp in the shade of an old tree in Barra de Navidad

Here are some pics from Harp's visit.

Ken here adding to what Harp posted. It was great to have her here withme in mexico on Allymar. We really did not go far, rather went to Tenatatica from Barra de Navitad and had a relaxing time walking on the beach, visiting with sailing friends and refreshing our relationship. Harp had the opportunity to add to her life bird list with a pink sided scooped billed something. She was so excited.

Currently back in La Cruz working our was north and then over to La Paz and home on the 14th of April.

Ken

Frenzy in the Laguna

2011-02-16T19:15:00.000-08:00

Hello all

Well, yesterday was a very interesting day in the laguna here in Barra de Navitad. Woke up to a wind out of the east and quite quixkly noticed that the boat dpwn wind from me was 10 feet away from my stern. Rreceived 2 calls on the VHF in the next 2 minutes to lety me know. When that boat anchored 2 days before I mentioned to him that I was a little concerned about his anchoring close to me and could he please keep a good watch as the wind in the afternoon quickly could build to 20 knots out of the west. He acted somewhat responsive and said he would set a good watch. he then left and went ashore for the day and 1/2 the night. Tom. Ron and I had to stay there and drink beer all afternoon just in case, Fortunately the wind did not blow and all was well. Yesterday morning he did not answer on the radio and it toot my yelling and a friend pounding on his boat to gbet him up. He did them re-anchor, but only after a discussion as to who was the cause of our closeness. I reminded him who was there first and my concerns when he first anchored. He dithered a bit but finally re-anchored, but in a place too close to another boat. I do not understand the herd instinct to place your boat close to another when there is enough room for all. Similar to parking your car in the far corner af a parking lot anf return to find 3 cars parked next to you. There was sufficent space for all actually to anchor correctly.
Next a large power boat started drifting into the pack. It took 8 of us to corall her ( 4 dingies pushing and tuggung, Carl on the anchor windlass and me on the wheel steering the power boat). Was left open but there was no key in the ignition. If we had not been able to stop her she would have taken out 2 sailboats downwind. It does not take much to get a bunch of yachties working together to protect our homes. The owner came back to his boar sometime after 9 pm to find it anchored in a different place.
2 other sailboats were aground and 3 re-anchored as a result of the east wind. Just goes to show that we should always be alert and not complacent.

The worst part of the day was that I was planning a trip to Melaque to get paint to work on Allymar, and was late and the paint store was closed for siesta. Bummer.
Went back there today and had a great time.
Today was great with warm sunny day and good friends.

Ken

Barra de Navitad Manzanillo

2011-02-10T18:16:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone from what has proven to be the best cruising grounds in Mexico. Not sure why they call them cruising grounds as the last place you want to be in the boat is on the ground. I am in Barra do Navitad which is in Jalisco state just north of Colima State. The weather is warm in the day and cool at night, which is just about perfect. Since my last post we have visited Chacals. Chemala and Tenacatica, All three of which were small, relativly isolated and picture postcard of the Mexican Rivera, The towns (villages) ae all small when they exist and the beaches are sandy, long and invite strolling for hours. Tenacatica was my fravorite in that there was a cruising community that met and played volleyball, frisbe and Bacche Ball on the beach. When I remember my camera I will add pictures of the dingy raft-up there. Took the dingy up the estuary to the lagoon, a trip on 2.5 hours on a small gas tank. I was somewhat concerned about us being stuck up there as the tide turned but sure love that gas sipping honda. Hard to believe that it still runs great after being under water (salt) all night last year in Cabo.
Barra is another world from the isloated spots, but still vfery interesting and fun. Barra has been designated by the Mexican government as a tourist zone and it sparkels in a simple non condo vein. I anchored in the lagoon and spend the day doing boat chopres (re-wire, paint cabin top and bulwarks and maintain the batteries for the extra load of keeping the cooler operating. This si the furthest south I will go on the boat and will stay here for Harps arrival. Carl and Pam have chosen to go ashore as there will be no further destination for them. Manzanillo the prior farthest south destination is 30 miles south of here and has no draw for me. I did go there to get paint and found it to be typical of large Mexican towns. You need to get to the old centro area and there you find the real city. As with our cities and outskirts are loaded with Walmarts and Home Depots, restruants with familiar names and seem to be the focus of the gringos what haunt the resorts and condos. We saw 2 gringos in 3 hours in the old city.

Must mention gthat in Tenatacita the Mexican navy boarded all of the boats in the anchorage. They took pictures of all the instuments including radios, clocks, barometers and computers. They were very pleasant and courteous in comparison to our coast guard and customs.
Pictures arre of Tenacatica (up the laguna, yachties on ther beach and in the raft up, Mexican navy) Manzanillo ( big fish sculpture, me eating in the marcado central) and Barra (Malacon)
Forgot to mention, watched the Packers win and what a great game. Both teams have nothing to be ashamed of. Competative and entertaining.

Fair winds

Ken

La Cruz

2011-01-25T15:30:00.001-08:00

La Crus had turned out to be a rather nice place to stay and enjoy a quiet place while going into Puerto Vallarta to go to the large grocery stores. I coulf stay here a while as many cruisers have done. "Came here 3 years ago and never left as i found the place i was looking for. The plaza is quiet in the week and hustles with shoppers on Domingo. Small sellers who pay 50 pesos for their small stand. The money goes to pay for a childrens reading program. See the picture of the kids drawing on a tarp on the ground.
Watched the football playoff game here and even the owner of the place was a Packer fan.

Outside the restruant i met up with a man with a push cartthat had a steam boiler to keep his roasted banannas and sweet potatoes hot. He let the town know where he was by letting off steam through a whistle. Locals and gringos came a running.

Dinner with fellow cruisers was at the home of a women who puts on dinners and uses the money to send her kids to university and Spain. In her real life she is a lawyer.

So much from here. Will leave thursday for points south. Weather looks good

San Blas to la Cruz

2011-01-23T12:39:00.000-08:00

San Blas is a lovely old Mexical town south of Mazatlan. Known as the location where the franciscian monks left from to conquer the indigenous inhabitants of California. Was thinking of the recent Columbus Day celebration renamed as Indigenous Persons Day by my daughter years ago. Both there and in La Paz they pulled no punches in describing how much the Spanish destroyed an existing culture. The town square (Zocolo?) was filled with local families on the weekend showing off their new dresses and shoes.

Took a panga ride up the estuary to look at more birds and crocs. They raise baby crocs and release them in the estuary. As expected there is no swimming anywhere except in 1 very protected by underwarer fence location. The biggest croc we saw swimming was about 8 feet long. Quite different here in La Cruz which is just northwest of Puerto Vallarta. What i can tell so far is that La Cruz works hard to maintain its small town atmosphere. Tougue tacos, roasted sweet potatoes and banannas from street vebdors with steam whistles and wood fired boilers on their carts.

Green Bay just scored another touchdown and the score is now 14-0 Packers. I wonder, does listening to the Packers/Bears game in spanish count as language school? We also can't also understand why there is steam or smoks coming out of the players mouths and noses? Are they all smokers?

Weather is great and sailing friends appear and sail away. A moving transient community that Harp will join me in traveling on in 2 weeks or so.

Aloha

Ken

Isla Isabel

2011-01-16T13:11:00.000-08:00

Hello all

Don't have a lot of time to write as it takes forever to download pictures. Isla Isabel is called the Galapagos of Mexico and was as advertised. Thousands of birds and in their mating and display season. Harp just jumped into the scene so I could show everyone how we communicate. That pic was takes from a palapa in Stone Island Ensenada just south of Mazatlan. I do love the Frigate Birds on the basketball backboard and the cute couple sitting on their nest. What about those blue feet on the blue footed Booobies. The other Boobie is a Masked Boobie and has the yellow feet.

Ken

Go Ducks

2011-01-10T14:19:00.000-08:00

Monday afternoon sitting in a Palapa with a cervesa with a plan to head south to Isla Isabela tomorrow afgternoon. Will be a 18 hour passage to the island and we will do the majority of it at night to ensure a daytime arrival. That will give us the option to head to San Blas if we can't anchor at Isabela. Yesterdays sail from the marina to here was excellent with 20 knots of wind from the NW. Made it here faster than the same trip to the marina under power back in December. It will be the first overnight sail for Carl and Pam, and expect I will be up more than usual.
Will not be able to listen to the game tonight as this playa closes down at 1800 hours. I feel it will be a close game with the last team to have the ball the winner.
Hey Dee Dee, How about them Packers.
Warm sunny day today, great for the last provisioning trip to the marcado for beefsteak. Pollo and cheese.

See ya south of here

Ken

Back in Mazatlan

2011-01-07T19:55:00.001-08:00

Aloha all

After a great vacation from my vacation I arrived back in Mazatlan yesterday. Flew in yesterday with Carl and Pam to weather much warmer than what we left in Oregon. It was hard to say goodby to Harp and I look forward to her meeting me in Manzanillo in February. We now have refigeration on Allymar, all wired up and running on both 11o and 12volt. Ice is really hard to find in the block form and the cubed just dosn't last long. Hope to do our final provisioning tomorrow and headout south either on Sunday or Monday.
Crew is settling in well and I expect us to get along well and have a good trip south. Tomorrow is also a day for going into the old section of Mazatlan and do some exploring and seeing. To get away from the hustle and bustle of the new parts of Mazatlan (Home Depot, Wallmart, condos and Mc Donalds) is refreshing. Lookling forward to some real local food for lunch.
Had to purchase water to fill the tanks today from 5 gallon jugs. La Paz was easier in that the marina/fual dock had their own water purification plant and the water was potable. I sure don't want to purchase a osmosis unit for Allymar but can see why others have them.

Happy new yeat and love to all

Fair Winds

Ken

Catching up

2010-12-22T07:33:00.000-08:00

Nina having her holiday picture taken
Ken with a wine bottle christmas tree

K
its a real dead pig

Ken and Bob in mazatlan

Reef fish in San Evistro

Full moon over Ensenada Grande Isla Partita

Ken and Harp on the bowsprit
Langostino on ther BBQ

Harp sailing

Parp sign on the island

Ken hiking on Espiritu Santo

Where Allymar spent the summer

I tried 3-4 times to post to this blog while I was in Mexico and was never successful. Got back to Oregon for my holiday vacation from my vacation and dug out the password I was missing. So. time to get caught up.
Where to start? The most recent adventure is the best place to start. At times in my life I have been more lucky than smart, and Boy was I lucky last week. Flew back here to Oregon on the 15th and had an emergency appendectomy the next day. Rapid onset of abdominal pain that migrated to the right lower quadrant in hours and 2 hours after seeing my doc I was on the table. Spent 3 days in the hospital and now have a 1 month 10# limit. If this had happened on the passage from Los Muertos to Mazatlan or on the plane ride home, who knows what would have transpired. I can't say enough for the local Silverton hospital and the care I received.
So, what else has happened since I arrived in La Paz.
Harp and I had a wonderful sail north from la Paz into the Sea of Cortez. The usual slow process of working our way north and then a few days of exciting sail back to La Paz (riding the usual NW and 1 norther). It was exciting to watch Harp marvel at the ability of the monitor windvane to steer Allymar on a wind course with 25 knots over the stern. We could both stand up on the bow and play airplane wing without tending the tiller. DDW with a twin and reefed main hitting some of the fastest speed she ever did. Harp loved the warm weather and lack of need for clothes. Walked on shore, snorkeled and swam daily and a good time was had by all. Beyond the sailing and being with her, highlights were Mango ice cream with real mango in it in La Paz, sitting on deck at night looking at the stars and has ability to use her spanish. Watching her leave on the taxi was hard. Met old friends from last year. and made new ones.
My next trip was with Bob (owner of a brew pub in Washington. Our trip north was against 2-3 northers and prevented us from getting further than San Evistro. Seemed like we were always hanging of the anchor swinging back and forth in the gusty anchorage with everyone else waiting out the norther. Decision was made to head for Mazatlan and give up the option of going north. So back to La Paz for ice, beer, tequila and meat for the BBQ. The crossing from Los Muertos was uneventful and could have been more windy. I believe that next year I will cross from Los Frailes to get a better wind angle. Bob was a great crew and I was never concerned about his abilities or companionship.
Mazatlan is interesting in that there is really no place to sail there, and is more a location for mariners to spend the winter or just pass through on the way south or north. Really a great city with a old down town marcado, good bus system and minimal gringos when the cruise liners are not in harbour. Marina Mazatlan is minimal in comparison to the amenities and cruising environment in comparison to Marina de la Paz. I did miss that and feel it is due to the close proximity of La Paz to the sea and its multiple marinas and anchorage. The only real place to anchor in Mazatlan is Stone Island which is a way distance from anything.
Highlights of Mazatlan were hiking to the top of the highest manned lighthouse in the world, the marcado and seeing where the local population lives and shops and the palapa at Stone Island. The weather is really different from La Paz in that the humidity allows morning fog and wet decks each morning.
I (after lots of investigation and study) made the decision to equalize Allymar's batteries. Almost burnt her down as an unknown short in 1 battery cooked the post off 1 and boiled the charge out of the rest. $700 out the door for new batteries. Allymar is in good shape and I will return in early Jan with Carl and Pam to head south with the final turn around point still to be decided. Harp will meet me in Feb and hopefully Marj just after that. Expect a call from me Dean so we can coordinate your arrival.

Fair winds

Ken
Happy holidays to all and hope to be able to add to this blog more frequently using the correct password.

2010-10-23T08:37:00.000-07:00

Hello from La Paz.
Arrived here on the 18th after an exciting flight. First a passenger though the port motor was malfunctioning and the co pilot had to come back and check it out. He was then instructed in what a pitot tube was. The man"s wife needed to calm him down as he was sure we were going to crash. Then the pilot forgot to tell the cabin crew we were landing and they were tvisiting with the passengers as the gear went down. Never have I seen them scurry around so fast. maybe the pilot needed to pee as the plane had only 1 bathroom. A prop plane fully loaded from LA to LP. Sure was great to start to see places in the sea of Cortez where I sailed, and to see Allymar sitting on the hard as we flew over her.
And what a mess she was and actually still is. Dirt and dust everywhere, seams open as she shrunk in the hot summer sun, brightwork badly in need of varnish and teak needing lots of oil. Inside was OK although dirty (even with my mostly closing her up). I have spent all of my time since I arrived scrubbing, painting, oiling and working. Sails are on and all of the running rigging is in place. Head has been re built and the motor looks good. hard to tell until I start it in the water. No water damage but then there was little rain this summer in La Paz. they have a water shortage and will be putting in a desalinator plant. Overall the summer was hard on the ol girl. but with the addition of medical science and esthitics she is coming around. Once in the water there is more to do as I am reluctant to go up the mast on the hard. Way to high above the hard ground. On a positive note the cabinets and drawers all open and slide easily a the wood is smaller. Talked to a man that build his boat in Washington and when he came own here all the sliding doors were too small and fell out of their tracks.
Weather is in the high 8o's and low 90's in the day and mid 60's in the night. I try to work with respect to the sun and drink a lot of gatorade. Shorts and t shirt in the day, light blanket at night. Not bad. Meeting a lot of old friends at the marinas and each day brings new new boats into the bay. Wish I could do pictures but my computer will not accept the flash card from the camera.
As for fun, seeing La Paz again, meeting old friends and watching Phil Night University beat UCLA. Will watch the packers and vikings on sunday. The boatyard is multi national. Swiss, French, German and Gringo. We are all on the same mission, into the water.
Allyson this is for you for reminding me to blog.

Aloha to all and enjoy life.

Ken

Back in Oregon

2009-12-03T10:46:00.000-08:00

Back in La Paz BCS

2009-11-29T16:36:00.000-08:00

November 29, 2009
The following postings were written in the time frame Nov 14 to today. I will try to put some pictures on the blog.
Arrived back in La Paz this afternoon, one day earlier than we planned. Last night was a very rough night with 4 foot swells and 20 knots of wind in the anchorage. No a word about that weather on the SSB during the day and it caught us by surprise. A much more worrisome night than the ones off the coast of California in that the fetch was 15 miles and the surge and swells had some time and distance to build up. Broke te snugger on he anchor rode and had to rely on just the ½” line for windlass relief and strain reduction. Left and had a great sail today with westerlies all day. Sitting here in Marina Palmira which is quite lavish and fancy. Wish I was back in the islands.
Boat chores to put her to sleep for 2 months and then fly home on the 2nd.

November 14, 2009
Left La Paz this morning to go north to the islands. Very difficult time in my setting up moorage for Allymar while I return to Oregon for 2 months. Not sure what it was that I ate, but wokeup in the middle of the night with the problem noone wants to have when traveling. They were so good to me in the office at Marina Palmira. Found me a couch to lie on, took my information from the couch, brought me water and gatoraide and let me just keep the key to the bathroom. All ready to the layup and have my tickets for Oregon on Dec 2nd. On second thought, bet it was the sample food that I ate in the CCC.
What did I do all day on the boat? Slept all the way to Caleta Prieta and most of the rest of the day. I have absolutely no idea what Dean did beyond driving the boat there. Clark and Nina dingy’d over when we go here, but I had no energy to do more than get anchored and put the sail covers on. Hope for a better day tomorrow. Tonight the norther is coming in so that say.

November 15, 2009
A lot better today, still not eating. The bay is filled with boats (power and sail) waiting out the norther. Blew fairly hard last night and today with gusts up to 25 here in the protected bay. Motored around some in the dingy and although got soaked from the swell splash, it was refreshing. Can’t help but hark back to the days on Santa Cruz and in frisco bay where we needed to use foulies to keep from freezing from the spray when out in the dingy in a breeze. Warm and dry has been replaced with warm and OK wet. Spent some time on shore and it was fun to walk in the steps left from my time here last year. I do enjoy returning to places that hold good memories. Watched the kayak parties come in and won der about the couple from Colorado who went on the kayak trip last year in an effort to put some energy back into their marriage. I wished that well and a happy life together. Their intention was good and maybe getting away together was the poultice that they needed.
Planned an afternoon brunch with Russ and Ros, Clark and Nina on Worrel Wind. Maybe a hike before.
The norther continues to blow here. Wind blasts down the anchorage between the east and west openings and spins us all around. Can’t imagine what it is like outside this beautiful place. The fish camps seem 5to have made it through the hurricane rather well, or they have rebuilt them to look like before. One of the rough structures had a TV antenna, solar panel and VHF antenna. These fishermen spend considerable time in these remote camps and return to their base to sell fish and replenish food and salt. I have seen no females fishing.
Interesting crabs here: Fiddler Crabs with one small clawthey use to eat with (the up and down movement like the movement of a bow) and another very large on used for mating. I guess that size matters no matter the difficulty in holding it I saw some males that had one that must have been hard to walk with. They did seem to be proud and carried themselves in a grand manner, clay up and ready.
This is also the nesting and mating grounds for the blue footed booby. Last time I saw one was in San Diego at the going away party where a man was dressed as one with blue shoes and one rather large boob in the middle of his chest.
Looks like we will spend one more night here as the swells and wind have not dropped much.
November 16, 2009
Yep, another day here in Caleta Prieta. A day spent hiking up the northeast wall of the crater to the escarpment at the top with Russ. Fantastic views of this old volcanic crater. A big difference from last year is how green it is due to the recent hurricane. The desert is in bloom with flowers, new green growth and underbrush where last year there was only dirt and rocks. Hiked up a water course where you can just imagine the speed and force of the water than arrives with a hurricane and must find its way downhill. We passed through bolder fields with deep holes that still held water and smooth waves of rock that were like waling on a sidewalk for 100 feet.
The water clarity was not As good as I hoped due to the action of the norther caused swells. Thus snorkeling was not as dramatic. Wish I had an Hawaiian sling.
Will leave here tomorrow.

November 17, 2009
Left Caleta Prieta thast morning and got nowhere at all. Were able to go about 2.9 knots max with pounding and pitching from the residual swell from the norther. Turned around and anchored about 1 mile north in Ensenada Grande. Just like it was last year trying to go north from San Francisco to Evaristo. Allymar and most boats can’t go into the swells without significant difficulty. One of those times where you just stop and go to plan B. Plan B is pretty damm good as Ensenada Grande was excellent water clarity, a wall to snorkel on and a somewhat flat hike. Hiked up the arroyo to some caves filled with shells that fall out of the overhead over time. Leaching out of the substrate over time so give us a sense of time and geologic history. Could also smell sulfur and the water in the lagoon was slightly warm although nothing was mentioned in the cruising guide about hot springs here.
The most common cactus is the Cardon Cactus. It can get to heights of 70 feet snd 4 feet in diameter. Some of them were in bloom and probably relate to the late season hurricane as this is not the blooming season. They are a type of Sargasso and look like sentinels along the ridge tops.
There are only 3 boats in this large anchorage. 1 of which like us went out in the morning and came into here.

November 18, 2009
What a difference a day makes. The swells were almost nonexistent, and the winds were also nonexistent. Thus we had to motor this sailboat north. Prevailing Noserlies again darn. Stopped tonight at a roadsted anchorage at Manglo Solo on San Josed island. Rather spectacular place to anchor. Open to all but the north east and east, with a dramatic view of the sun setting over the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. Turned the island at our back red and orange as the sea turned from blue green to black. Before the sun set I was able to dingy to shore and hike over to the estuary behind the sun spit and once again wished I knew the names of the birds nesting and swimming on the flat salt pond. Another large cactus forest on the shore and the continuing green from the recent hurricane.

November 19, 2009
Woke this morning to the opposite of last nights display of color and light. The mountain range that was dark last evening was decorated with bright yellow light and was able to show off its sedimentary striations to all their splendor. Speaking of splendor, we sailed almost all day today wityh a strong NE wind, slowing backing to N at the end of the day. The non-silence of the boat when just under sail might be loud if not in comparison to the noise of the motor. It’s a swoosh, a swish, a companion sound of hull, rigging and wind than is soothing to me and seems to fall into a rhythm with the rise and fall of Allymar as she rides the swells.
Arrived at Bahia San Marte on the peninsula of Ba Ha. Just around the corner is Bahia Aqua Verde which will be our most northerly destination on this trip inside. In some ways all of these places seem to look the same. The difference is in the feeling of each place. Sand or pebble beaches. Smells coming off the land in the evening (smells that I have never felt before, both pleasant and unpleasant. Will try to find the aroma agent tomorrow as the trip ashore was short tonight.

November 20, 2009
Rough night. Swells out of the north wrapped around Punta San Marte and gave us a rather lumpy, rocky and uncomfortable night. Moved over behing a headlands for better protection from these swells. Was able to look down on the anchorage and the curving of the swells was very apparent from above. As frustrating as it is the opportunity to have thiis LOCAL KNOWLEDGE is part of the learning curve in my sailing encyclopedia. Thus we moved just al little bit and the comfort level is so much better. I have a habit of not anchoring near other boats, I guess to give them their space and not fall into the herd instincve I see often where we need to be close to others for some feeling of comfort and safety. I see it all the time: Large anchorage, 1 boat there and another anchors 100 feet away. Wish I had done that last night.
Hiked a lot and have about 5 possible options for the evening smalls. Will bartbacue the last of the chicken tonight and have it with quinona and grilled veggies. Breakfast was pancakes.

November 21, 2009
Bahia Aqua Verde. Tienda had minimal junk food and no veggies and the restaurant was open but the esposa was not in the la Casida thus we had to suffice with crackers and coke for lunch. Manly food don’t you think. What a delicious feast foe the eyes this bahia. Nestled in behind the reef near a small h with fishing pangas pulled up beyond the high tide line just to port of Allymar. Green water, pelicans (haVe I mentioned pelicans lately) and now to take a shower.

November 23, 2009
The tienda was much better yesterday. Maria was there and the truck from highway 1 had arrived. Was able to purchase veggies, pollo and crackers. No cervesa was availiable and we will have to go short rations until we arrive back at La Paz in a week. There is the slight chance that there will be beer in San Evariso in a couple of days. No wind at all the last 2 days, not even a land or sea breeze early or late in the day. We are presently under way south for either Puerto Los Gatos or San Telmo. Motoring again, but if you don’t motor you do not get anywhere it seems. The sailing here is somewhat like the San Juan’s and Gulf Islands in the variability of winds. We are hoping for a land breeze so left early to hopefully catch it. Capt and crew are falling into a more relaxed lifestyle each day and enjoying the sun and good weather. Having the water close at hand to cool off makes even the most warn and hot days tolerable.

November 23, 2009. 2100 hours
Got the sea breeze. Yahoo.

November 25, 2009
The day before Thanksgiving and I did not remember until someone on the beach today reminded me of that day where we remember and thank the universe for all of the wonderful experiences and opportunities open to us. I must mention at this time that I have no idea why the text is doing something weird on this page. So, here I sit in the cockpit of Allymar in the anchorage at Isla San Francisco under an overcast sky with almost half of a moon peeking through the clouds and almost providing enough light to do this computer by. Shorts and shirt, warm with just a slight breeze out of the north. I am thankful. Outside the anchorage the wind is 18 to 20 with the steep high frequency swells common here when the wind builds from the north. I am thankful to be anchored and calm. Hiked to the ridge this afternoon to look down on the anchorage and was disarmed by the color of the water. Green slowly turning to white as the shore approached and blue as the waters deepened off shore. I am thankful. Sailed from Bahia Los Gatos to Puerto San Evistero yesterday and from there to Isla San Francisco today without any need for the motor. & knots downwind under the twins and reefed main and mizzen. Allymar comes into her own as the wind piped up and keeps her balance and carries us safely to our destination. I am thankful. Caught a skipjack tuna each of ythe last 2 days and enjoyed the bounty of the sea each evening. I am thankful. Doogie McClean on the IPOD and I remember how his music at times matches the beat and time of the swells offshore. I am thankful again. Swaying here at anchor in company with other sailors and their crafts of transport. Meeting new and old friends on the beach and as the dingy’s travel boat to boat. I am thankful. I will be home this time next week with my partner Harp in our home in Oregon. I am and will be thankful. I hope and dream that she will be able to join me enough to really appreciate this area when she comes down here. To miss dinner tomorrow at my brother’s home in Chico is a sadness, but one tempered by memories of past dinners and the idea that we are connected in spirit if not space.
Tomorrow’s travel will be farther south heading to La Paz. Plan is to revisit Ensanada Grande where I was very content and napped in the afternoon. The clarity of the water was excellent for snorkeling and I will have more practice in taking underwater photos.Hopefully this small Norther will continue long enough to push us in a quiet mode on our journey Allymar has been such a good steed for the last (almost) 3 months. Hard to believe it has been that long. Will put her to bed in La Paz for 2 months or so and then ride her again until April 2010.

November 27, 2009
Hanging out here in the islands, Snorkeling, hiking and napping. A lot of fun is being had.

Love to all
Fair winds

Ken

Good news, bad news

2009-11-13T08:28:00.000-08:00

Hello from La Paz

Well the good news is that the weather here today and through sunday will be in the 80's with winds in the 10 knot range. The bad news is that the first "norther" of the year is scheduled to arrive just after that. A norther is a cool windy blast coming down the Sea of Cortez from the Colorado plateau. It will change our traval plans to the islands during its duration. Our plan is to go north and homestead a shaltered cove for the duration, and then head north. Worst things could happen as the coves that offer sufficent protection can hold enough boats that we should be not only sheltered but in company of other "beach party" boats. Hunker down. party and have fun ah. Today is provisioning, sightseeing and enjoying the great weather we have.
I will be able to post again on November 30 as there are no towns or electronic options in the islands. Fantastic. Harp has made my airline connections and I will be back in oregon on dec 3rd.
Had a good reunion with the three gorls from Don Quixote yesterday. They are a yearolder but just as sweet and communicative as last year (well 2 of them are, but that was the way it was last year also)

La Paz

2009-11-12T09:24:00.000-08:00

Writing that in La Paz which is about 100 miles north from Cabo and a world apart in additude and comfort for me. What a difference to be in a place wher the local people live and the place is not filled up with tourists drinking beer etc. Coming north from Cabo we stopped at Bahia los Frailes and Ensenada Los Muertos. Both beautiful bays with sandy beaches and opportunity to walk and get off the boat for a while. Los Muertos has a restruant (restruant 1535) that is named after the datre that Cortez srrived there. The reason for the restryant is the gringo golf coouse and club situated there. 1 grand a night to stay in the club condo wow. The water is the most striking shade of blue and you can see rather large fish swimming below the boat. The sight of rays surfacing and jumping into the air is a startling experience the first time you see it.
To get back to Cabo again; there was a radio call out from a boater who stated how glad he was to leave, and the call was echoed by 3 other boats.
So where from here: We will leave on sat and head north to the islands and see how far we can get and arrive back here on December the first. I hope to get to Laredo if possible. Both Dean and I have agreed that hurring along to see more places is not as good as quality enjoyment where we do go. I will be flying home to Oregon and Harp on Dec 2.

Hello from Cabo We made it didn't we

2009-11-05T17:41:00.001-08:00

October 25, 2009
Tried to post something three times and the Howard Johnson web site would not allow me to do it. The nerve of them!! Hopefully Harp was able to post something for me. Today is the big party at West Marine where all of us (700) to meet the folks. Tomorrow is the big day to leave at 1100.

October 27, 2009

Put our anchor down not in Turtle bay a expected, but rather in Bahia San Quentin. There was a rather big swell out in the pacific and all but the hard core racers came here. It was a bit snotty especially with the swell lifting and transom and constantly spilling all of the wind out of the sails. Rock and rolling that made both of the crew quite sea sick. Based upon prior experience I went out of my way to remind them of the importance of both eating and drinking even if that is only a temporary input to their body. At the same time I have to remember that I m not their keeper and as adults they can ans should make good decisions. That is something they both do, but I am “always the pop” in my own mind.

We had to motor 1/3rd of the way the San Quintin, as the wind finally went away (at a level that will move Allymar 12 knots). I look forward to getting to cruising grounds where I can leave or stay according to my and not a schedule of the rally. Positive notes on being able to finally get the ham radio working and can communicate with other ham’s and SSB users on boats. The problem was a loose connection and not a big grounding or antenna/counterpoise problem.

Writing this as we passage to Turtle Bay. Great winds although the swells are still present. Bad news in that a J 120 was attacked by a whale as they left San Qunitin and as a result JWorld was lost. All 5 hands were picked up by Coast Guard chopper and are safe and well in San Diego. They had 7 minutes to get off the boat into the liferaft, set off the EPRIP and had a horrible time in a swamped and wet raft. First boat lost in the history of the Ha Ha. Puts a note of caution and awareness of the fact we are in a less forgiving environment that on land and must be ready to make decisions that are and can be lifesaving. My heart goes out to them.
As for this moment I was just out on deck, the moon is out, looking down the swells is like a canyon that moves taking you with it. Swells are scheduled to be 20-25t on 12-14 second intervals and they are that.

October 30. 2009
Turtle Bay, lights of all the anchored boats as backdrop to warm windy Mexican nights. We will leave tomorrow for Bahia Santa Maria 235 nautical miles down the coast. As we spent the extra night in San Qunitin our time here was too short. Did not have the time to go to the night of the dead celebration in town as I did last year. Did make it to the beach party and yes did drink and eat too much. 700 people on a beach with similar intention is a sight. Was able to put faces with the voices I heard on the radio. Lots of chatter on the radio as the long night of watches passes.
Was able to fix the jammed mizzen halyard using climbing gear. Pulled the mizzen down the other night in big swells and a rolling boat and the halyard was pulled sideways. The other problem is a small fuel leak in the engine room which will take much more fixing. A job for La Paz I expect.
The next passage will be 2 nights and 3 days. To be honest I would like better a slower passage down the outside of Ba Ha. There are anchorages we are missing. But, this venue made it easier to find crew. Doubt I will ever come this way again on my own boat, and might try to find myself a crew position in the future for a more slow transit. This time I have a commitment to my crew and Dean who will meet me in Cabo to keep on the schedule. If it was not for that, I would bag the Ha Ha. At the same time I am having fun.
If anyone reading this wants to talk about the pros and cons lets do so.

November 1, 2009
Wow, November is here. We have been on the water for 2 months, and 1 more to go to see Harp again. This is the second of 2 nights offshore traveling to Bahia Santa Maria. Last night was perfect except for a lack of enough wind and Harp being here. Smooth seas, almost full moon, warm weather (almost T shirt and shorts) and the twinkling lights all around of fellow sailors. What a splendid night to remember. Played Hawaiian slack key guitar on the I Pod ™, and stood and looked around. Was not a night to sit in the cockpit and just watch to make sure the windvane was steering the correct course. Based upon the radio chatter, I was not the only one with this feeling of a special night. When I wonder why I put up with the confused seas, cold nights and windless days, I need to remember last night.

November 2, 2009
Anchored in Bahis Santa Maria. Wish I could stay here for a week and walk the sands, climb the hills and play Frisbee ™ with sea dollars. They are the biggest I have ever seen anywhere and more plentiful than at Westport Washington. At night the anchorage is full of all the anchor lights of the fleet as there is no city here. What a lonely, beautiful place is Santa Maria.

November 5, 2009
Should be in Cabo in about 4 hours. Can see Capo Falso with Cabo just around the corner. Another special night last night. My watch was 12 -3 and I did not want it to end. Other sailors with thousands of miles under their keels, said on the radio this morning that they can’t remember a better night and that it would go into their memory bank as one of the special ones. Occasionally there is a meeting of seas, wind, weather and attitude that together is bigger and more emotional than the separate parts. We have had some of those the last few nights. It has little to do with safety, distance from land or the completion of your journey.. It is a connection with the boat, the seas and the universe that I am not poet enough to describe. I just enjoy it and leave the rest to the wordsmiths. Saw my first green flash the night of the 4th. Just as the sun disappeared, a lava lamp like bubble of green bubbled to the surface for a nanosecond. Seeing your first akes you look harder for the other surprises that the heavens have in store for you.

Hello from Cabo We nade it didn't we

2009-11-05T17:41:00.000-08:00

from San Diego via Silverton

2009-10-24T19:06:00.001-07:00

Ken has been unable to access the blog for some reason. He asks that I let all you dedicated blog readers know that he is in San Diego, and will be leaving Monday the 16th with the HaHa group to Mexico.
Their first stop is Turtle Bay, then Bahia Santa Maria, then to Cabo San Lucas. He anticipates that they will arrive in Cabo November 5th or 6th.
He plans to post from Cabo.
He has had fun in San Diego, but like everyone else he is looking forward to getting on the water.
Harp--

2009-10-24T15:27:00.000-07:00

Still here in San Diego awaiting our departure on monday. I have really enjoyed the cith and it does not have the flavcor I expected. The traffic where I am is not that bad, and I have been able to visit may attractions without problems. Balboa park is a lot of fun and delivers a lot of educational bang for the buck. The zoo on the other hand was too expensive. If I lived here there are many discounts availiable that I could not get. Downtown is a lot of fun at night with the gaslight sectioon the best. warm temp and so far not much wind. We have our fingers crossed.
I am amazed at thye amount of money my fellow boaters are spending. Especially of the fluff of boating and not just the basics. it seems that everyone has airconditioning, a freezer, two watermakers etc. Boat does stand for BrerakOut Another Thousand

October 24, 2009

2009-10-24T15:21:00.001-07:00

I have had a very good time here in San Diego. Went to Balboa Park. Looked into going to he park but the cost was too much. Toured an aircraft carrier (really interesting). Hiked at Point Loma. Enjoyed the gas light section of downtown at night. etc, etc. There is quite a bit to do here and it doesnot have the usual flavor of a big city, rather a series of neighborhoods etc.
The final fitting out for the departure on monday seems to have sparked a furry of last minute rigging, equipment, electrinics, cleaning and most of all new and varied purchases in the marine stores. Boat does stand for (Break out another thousand

Made it to San Diego

2009-10-18T17:07:00.000-07:00

Sailed into San Diego yesterday morning in very dense fog. Sure love the GPS and plotter.
Docked at the police dock with many other sailboats. Time to share yarns and stories. Hope to have the opportunity to see SD and take some pictures.

Aloha

Ken

So Cal

2009-10-15T12:17:00.000-07:00

Waht a wonderful world we live in
Arrived in Newport Beach (14th) yesterdayafter a grand sail from Catalina. Wind from 110 and sailing on a 60 degree course with 20 knots. Whoopie as the speed reached the high 6’s, which is pretty good for a heavy displacement Allymar. Can honestly say that I have never seen so many sailboats in 1 place as here. Must be the sailing capitol of the west coast. There also have a good bus system as I have to go to Costa Mesa to get a new impeller as I needed to replace the existing one as we were leaving Catalina. The impeller is the rubber wheel that pumps raw seawater through the heat exchanger to cool the diesel and is very important. One always looks to see if water is coming out with the exhaust when running the diesel. I have a good amount of spare parts with the impeller at the top of the list.
Keep seeing new and previously seen Ha Ha boats and always good to talk with them and share stories. The big one this year is the lack of wind (along with gales that make sailing very difficult) and all of the motoring everyone is doing. Seems to be related to an eastern pacific el-nino. Wonder what is in store off Ba Ha?We continue to have a great time cruising and look forward to arriving in San Diego on the 17th. We keep on meeting more and more Ha Ha boatsd and share stories and dreams.
Tried to call the mens group last night but was unseccessful. Miss those guys.
Leaving for san Diego tonight. Should be a 14 hour slog with the motor on as there is no real wind forecasted for the next 4 days. Might as well go south as I have mostly seen what there is to see here and there is are much more options in San Diego.
See ya soon

Whistle up winds for us please
Ken

Catalina Island

2009-10-11T11:55:00.000-07:00

Good morning to all my friends

I am sending this from Catalina Island on the 11 th of October. We arriver here yesterday and will be leaving for either the other side of the island or Newport Beach tomorrow as a southwersterlie is coming. Very weird to be around people especiallyt tourists at this resort like place. No stores, but there is a bar and restruant. Everyone in shorts and designer sunglasses. I will attempt to download some pictures if the battery on the computer is charged sufficiently.
We continue to have a great time cruising and look forward to arriving in San Diego on the 17th. We keep on meeting more and more Ha Ha boatsd and share stories and dreams.

I tried to write as often as I could during my time away from the internet and cell phones
September 19, 2009
Left the hustle and bustle of the tourist town of Morro Bay to sail to Port San Luis. Finally saw almost all of the famous rock as we left. Legend has it that an early Spanish explorer felt it resembled the turbin or a Moor and named the rock. Spent all day in the fog without wind and had a grand sail only the last hour or so. Anchored off of Avila Beach and finally feel that I am in SoCal. Not much in Avila Beach as it is a beach town for San Luis Obisbo. Swimming, beach volleyball and the usual suspects. Had a pier to assist the trip to shore, with a ladder to climb up. Was able to stretch my legs some with a walk on the bike path and one to the lighthouse. 5 other cruising sailboats in the anchorage with us, all headed south.
September 23, 2009
Left at 2100 last night to sail to San Miguel Island. Wet and drippy night with the NW wind coming up after midnight. Ran the reefed main and staysail as night is not the time to put up the down wind sails.
Arrived at about 1420 to Cuyler Harbor and anchored with another boat. Plan was to go ashore and explore, when the winds really picked up and the dingy could not make it. Hard to believe that there can be this much chop and surf with being close to the shore and a mountain between us and the wind, We will be doing an anchor watch hourly tonight and check for chafe and dragging. Put out a second anchor on loose line just in case the primary CQR lets go. With better weather we will hike tomorrow and explore this national park property.
A trip of diversity and changes. Fog, sun, wind, calms, hot and cold. Cities, small towns and isolated anchorages. Placed to go ashore and places we cant due to the weather. Watching the sun come up through the fog this morning and feeling the heat warm a chilled body. Seeing 1 star and than the full star field appear as the fog lifted off the northern California coast. Looking at the new moon the other night the same time as Harp was in Silverton.. Adapting to the differing conditions that we have no control over once we have made a decision to do a passage.

September 24, 2009
Left San Miguel Island this morning and had a light wind run to Johnsaon Lee on the south side of Santa Rosa Island. Calm and smooth, warm and able to take showers in the sun. Bummer in that we re not able to go ashore. Combination of poor shore approach and the hunt on the island which has closed most of the island to visit. Met once again with Tom and Kim on Champagne who helped my sleep with fantastic margaritas.

September 25 2009.
Arrived in Bechers Bay on the east end of Santa Rosa island. Beachers Bay, northwest anchorage. Quite windy (downslope) and was aloso unable to go ashore as the parks dept is rebuilding the pier and I was asked to remove myself and the dingy ASAP. Something about my not reading the notices to mariners. Who ever reads those things anyway. Wild ride with Tom and Kim in his fast dingy with an unscheduled test of his transom when we hit a patch of kelp at full speed. The margaritas helped. Look forward to tomorrow as the weather is supposed to moderate. Hot chocolate night and thinking of family and loved ones. Taking the world as it happens and making the best of each opportunity.
September 26, 2009
Wow, what a day on the island. Winds out of the south allowed us to motor the dingy 1 ½ miles across the bay and land at the head of the canyon. Took a great walk on the canyon trail with wren calls, deep sightings and grand vistas. Saw a rare Santo Rosa Torrey Pine that only grows here and a type of lily that is special to here. Found a campground with hot running water, what a wonderful opportunity to clean up. The park rangers work Tue to Tue and love it out here. They would have taken us on a guided hike but needed greater numbers and were also limited in areas due to the hunt. The ranch family will vacate the island the end of 2011 and at that point the parks service will manage the entire island. Santa Rosa has been overgrazed for years and the chances of it ever being restored top pre white settlement is marginal. They are and will continue to eradicate non native species of animals and plans as possible. Actually the hunt is needed as deer and elk are not native. The question will be, who will eat the nonnative grasses endemic here now. Reminds me of the Steens in eastern Oregon with the removal of cattle from the canyons. Hard to believe that this island once was covered with oaks and had a whole different ecology. What a mess we civilized whites have done to the earth.
Just made it back to Allymar before the northwesterlies blew up in out face as we crossed back over the bay in the dingy with a 2 horse outboard. Glad we left the landing when we did. Another rocky windy night in wind alley.
September 27, 2009
Another night in windy alley was correct. Blew hard all night and when I did anchor watch at 0200 heard the people on the small boat just to SB talking about their anchor and how they were concerned. Left at 0845 this morning and there is no wind and we are motoring in dense fog. Visibility about 100 yards.
September 30, 2009
We all were tired of the constant winds and decided to leave for Santa Cruz island earlier than planned. We have been anchored at Coches Prietos (named for the black pig or boar that used to roam the island before the nature conservancy eliminated the pest). Coches is on the south side of the island and offers excellent protection from the 25 with gusts to 35 knot winds blowing from the NW. Another benefit is that the island soaks up all the moisture in the wind and the decks are not so wet in the morning. If he wind blows from the east and there is no dew on the deck in the morning we must leave for the other side of the island as the Santa Anna’s would be coming. There has been a steady stream of other boats coming and going from here although there are only 2 of us left since yesterday morning. I expect everyone is hunkered down waiting out the weather in nooks and crannies here on the south side. Took a couple of good hikes to the top of the first line of hills and can’t go much farther as the central valley of Santa Cruz is protected. Met a sailor the other night who has been around the globe on his J160 4 times since retirement. He will be joining the HaHa and I hope to talk to him more.
Sandy bottom with the anchor visible from the surface, occasional kelp growing to the surface and water almost warm enough to swim. Colin was able to spear 2 perch the last 2 nights and the variety was appreciated in our diet. We plan to go to Smuggler cove tomorrow for a change of scenery, and maybe the north side of the island before going to Catalina. He warm weather remain our partner. October is tomorrow, wow, we have seen so much in such a short period of time,
October 2, 2009
We have decided to remain at Cochos Prietes as there is a gale blowing on the north side of Santa Cruz Island. So we have to stay here is what is actually a paradise of a spot. The water is clear and the weather except for the inability to go to the north is great. We have easterly winds in the morning and they slowly veer to the NW as the day passes. The other morning was rather hectic with a small santa anna blowing out of the east and boaters leaving the anchorage with calls to us that we HAD to leave as danger was coming. I checked the weather and determined from the forecast and weather buoys at Anacapa Island (east of here) that the blow should be over by noon and we should be ok with two anchors out. Glad I was right as it turned out as planned. Hard decision to make with panicked skippers leaving. Then about 1100 I heard a skipper talking out coming in here, and it was our friends on Champagne (Tom and Kim). Good to see them again. Thanks for their call to Harp earlier to give her a report on us. Expect to stay her a while as the weather is supposed to pick up over the weekend
October 4, 2009 1500
Quite a gale we have been in. Manana just reported that the winds on their boat are gusting to 50 knots here in the anchorage and they are going to motor to the anchorage just to the east (Albert’s) as it gives better shelter from west winds. As we have two anchors out and to pull them would be difficult we have decided to remain in Coches. We will not be the only boat remaining here. All we can do is rest and wait it out. We do frequent chafe checks and everything looks good. Sure glad we are on the south side of the island, as the north side must be a real scary p[ace.
October 5, 2009 0900
The winds are out of the NW, and only at 15 knots. Time to leave for the other side of the island. Bob motored by as he was leaving and we both were missing the “geezer” time that the last two days of gale prevented. It is always good to spend time with my peers and away from the “kids”. Expect to go to the east side of the island today and see some new sights.
October 6. 2009 2100
Anchored in Little Scorpion anchorage on the east side. Spent the day yesterday hiking, getting water for Allymar’s tanks, and having black label with some geezers on shore. Retired school teachers from Visalia who are camping on the island for 3 days. There is a visitors center here with very interesting information on the geology and history of Santa Cruz. Another place we took from prior inhabitants who lived here for 13000 years. There are some of the most concentrated volcanic sea caves here and the geology is dynamic. Will get more water tomorrow and limit showers and start washing dishes in salt water. Another Oregon boat pulled into the anchorage in the evening, Stepping Stone out of Newport. They will be doing the HaHa also. Family of 4, with 2 daughters of +/- 5 and 16. Hope for another grand day tomorrow.October 9, 2009. In route for Catalina Island. NW winds and a following sea which makes for a rolly ride. Looking forward to arriving at another place. Santa Cruz was fantastic, with the sea caves, foxes, kelp beads and hikes
Fair winds
Ken

Onward to the south

2009-09-20T16:33:00.001-07:00

Hope your sunday was very productive

We have decided to spend 1 more day on the mainland before heading out to the Channel Islands. Port San Luis beckons and we will sail there tomorrow. Morro Bay was very interesting in that we never saw the famour rock due to fog. Thay did have a alvacado and marguarita festival in our honor and I wonder what Port San Luis has in store. Seemed a shame to not see this part of the California coast while we are here. The difference between even small towns like Morro bay and the isolated anchoraqges makes you appreciate both for what they offer. oo much of both I would expect would be missing the flavor of this wonfderful world. One area we will miss gladly is the LA basin and all of its maddness. By staying in the islands and offshore our next big stop (internet and stores etc) will be San Diego.
Morro Bay is a combination of working port and tourist attraction, as it seems are all of the small ports along the coast. I am glad that they have found a way to survive our economy and smaller fish harvests. Today was washing clothes, reprovisioning and meeting another HaHa participant (Steve on Joya).
San Miguel Island should be our first stop offshore and then on the Santa Cruz island. San Miguel is administered by the Parks Deparrtment and we should get our permission to land tomorrow. Before tghe islands we will be passing Point Conception, known for high winds and called the Cape Horn of California.
So, so long for now and I do not expect to be back posting for some time as there is no wifi out there. Next time pictures
I really appreciated the birthday greetings, where are all the cakes you promised. Call gthe coast guard and they will deliver.
Aloha and great sundays

Ken

San Fran to San Simeon

2009-09-18T12:29:00.000-07:00

Love this place San Simeon. Pelicans diving into the water at warp speed, Seals chasing herring aroubnd in big schools, Sea Otters lying on their backs and waving their flippers at me, Pelicans, Dolphins and more Pelicans. Hearst castle up on the hill and a great little store with good food for lunch. There is a hike on the beach where you walk along the cliff bewtyween rows or wind break trees that must have been planted years ago by easly settlers to the area.

Was great to see Justin in San Fran, Thanks for the use of the car Justin.

Had my birthday yesterday and celebrated with brownies, 1 candle and lots of phone calls. Thanks.

Left Sausalito at 930 Tue morning and arrived in San Simeon at 1430 on Wednesday. 180 miles in less than 30 hours, not bad at all. We expect to leave from here to either Morro Bay or Port San Luis on Sunday weather allowing. We will provision there for a trip f 2 weeks or so to the Channel islands. Have met boats going both north and south here and expect that only to increase as we go farther south.

Crew and skipper are doing well and look forward to warmer weather. The last night out was in the fog and was the coldest so far. When we sailed under the GGB going out we could barely see the bottom of the car surface from directly below and that fog lasted to below Half Moon Bay.

Hello to all

Fair Winds

Ken

Found more pictures

2009-09-12T14:04:00.000-07:00

We watched the bridge slowly come out of the fog as we approached the bar. Not that bar, the bar at the beginning of the bay. I have looked down at boats and it is as good if not better to look up at the people looking down. Should have expected something grand aftan that sunset. Guesas the wearther was impressive aall over the area as iIhave heard people talking about it today.

Ken

Half way to San Diego

2009-09-12T13:39:00.000-07:00

Hello friends

Sailed into San Francisco bay yesterday under the bridge into great saining weather. Lots of expensive racing boats out andf about on our way to anchor off of Sausalito. Was awakened in the middle of the night to see a grand light show of lighting with instant thunder. Watching the lightning hit the hills of Tiburon.

Spent thursday night anchored in Drakes Bay which is about 30 miles north of the bridge. Highlights of the trip down the coast: The 20 hours of heaving too when the winds and swells (increased with the wind waves) reached the point where running before it was not safe. The absolute confidence I now have in the down wind sails which work with only one up if needed. That the wind vane was able to steer Allymar even with onlky 1 down wind sail up. The learning curve of the crew which givves me confidence in them. Warm meals in the evening. The lack of good weather forcasting as the weather that caused us to heave too was supposed to be only 5-15.

Plan is to stay here until early next week and head south with the next stop hopefully to be San Simeon. Maybe have the opportunity to tale Justin and Valerie and others on a sail in the bay.

Ken

Almost time to go again

2009-09-06T15:47:00.000-07:00

Well the weather is improving and we should beable to leave tomorrow morning at 0700. It has been good to spend time in an old stomping ground although could have done without the rain and winds. Met up with White Cloud out of Seattle, and will hopefully see tham again on the trip to Mexico. The salmon slamming derby has been on all weekend and the word is that the catch wasoor this year. Lors of beer (if you can call coors lite beer) and food were purchased from the venders. Kristin and Colin are itching to go and are working on their assignment to plan a route to frisco with headings, distance and positions off the cape and points.

Saw a couple of Ashlanders and one Medfordite here and had the opportunity to listen to Siskiyou Music Hall on KSOR. Close to the old home I am.

Next post will be from frisco inless weather forces us to stop before. Our next anchorage is to be Drakes Bay just north and west of the golden gate bridge. I am looking forward to going under the bridge again.

Great picture of Harp bringing in the bounty of the garden. Was lucky to get to the farmers market yesterday here so we have fresh veggies for the trip. Food is important off shore, especially warm food.

See you all down the water highway.

Fait winds and following seas

Ken

from the not now sailing wife

2009-09-06T07:46:00.000-07:00

Wellll some one has to bring in all the corn that Ken planted, and since I can't sail, I got elected.

So here you have it: our first Silverton garden, and we didn't even amend the soil. Beans, corn, peppers squash, tomatos, eggplant, all the usual suspects. If we had any question about whether this was a good place to live to grow our food, those questions have been laid to rest!

Thanks to my pal Rosa who came out in the rain to pick.

Thanks too to Dee for the incredible short cut put up method: cut from cob, vaccuum pack and freeze. To be made into corn salsa et al later.

Blessings to the sailors: my intrepid husband (doing it for both of us) and Kristen and Colin-in my stead. Hope to meet you soon.

Harp--

Cleaning the bottom the fun way

2009-09-04T14:37:00.000-07:00

Took full advantage of a 24-36 hour weather window and scooted down to Brookings. Rubbed off the slight scum that grew on Allymar's bottom since the haul out. Crew did well for their first time out on the ocean, standing watches, asking appropriate questions and dealing with some seasickness with a positive attitude. It was so good to be back on the water, especially watching the moonrise as the sun was going down over thew other shoulder. There was a shade too much motoring as winds were light southerly most of the time. The Monitor vane did yeoman work when asked (I hate to steer). when we had good westerlies.

When we came into Brookings harbor this morning at 0630, the fleet of boats coming out for a Salmon derby met us in the channel between the jetties. Must have been 50 boats in 5 minutes as they rushed out to get the biggest and fastest fish. We just kept our speed and direction and let them go around us. Wish I had my camera as we came in.

Maybe, Maybe not!

2009-09-01T13:28:00.000-07:00

Hello friends

Allymar is ready and the crew is on board. Wondrful NW winds the last 2 days as we prepared to leave. Did the final provisioning this morning at the Safeway in Reedsport. Then I noticed the change. The wind was coming over the stern rather than the bow. Flags were performing the same dance overhead. Oh boy is that really happening!. Checked the weather forecast, and we will heve southerly winds for 3 days and then a retrun to the NWerlies. The low seems to be turning at Cape Mendocino and Califonia is still with NW winds.
The current and wave direction is from ther north, and when a south wind bulids the waves pack up and develop a greater frequency and amplitude = we would be plowing into them and not making much progress south. Another option is to go far offshore on a port tack and then loop back on a starboard tack as the NW winds return. I think the best option is to wait it out and go on friday hopefully. Plan is to put the capes and points about 20 NM to port on the way down stopping at Humboldt Bay is the fog allows and then SF.

Right now the sun is warm, the day is bright and it is casadilla time.

Aloha

Ken

Counting down

2009-08-26T07:11:00.000-07:00

Back in Silverton after a few days spent in preparing Allymar for her trip south. The rule that the size of a boat decreases in size 2 fold for every foot you go up the mast is true and was seen on more that one occasion as LED mast lights, SSB antenna and new topping lift were installed. On the other hand the view is great from 50 feet up. Discovered that the inspection port to see the timing marks on the flywheel was hidden by a motor mount. Back to the old technique of watching the rocker arm and estimate TDC. I would be a bit more confident in the adjustment with a timing mark but the diesel runs smooth.
Now its provisioning, final adjustments, fixing the inevitable late problems and watching the weather for a departure date in the first week of September. I will miss Winchester Bay and all of the great friends I have made during our stay there. Flying the HaHa flag brings new opportunities to develop relationships as dock walkers wander by and talk about their thoughts of "going south".
In San Diego I will meet up with friends we met in Canada last year (Clark and Nina) who will be crewing on the Ha Ha this year. Check out the Ha Ha list, good to see all of the Oregon boats signed up this year. Maybe with refigeration we will have some good beer for the trip down the coast of Ba Ha.
Harp will drive me over on friday and I will really miss her as I travel. I am so blessed to have this opportunity to have this awesome trip with the blessing of Harp. I will hopefully fly home from San Diego to see her.

Fair winds

Ken

JUly 26 2009

2009-07-26T18:06:00.001-07:00

It has been a considerable time since I either posted or looked at this blog. Seems like time to do so as time until I leave to go south on Allymar is fast approaching. Harp can't go with me as her Piriformis Muscle is still a problem, but will join me in Mexico. Health insurance is now a part of her life and more intensive medical intervention is in the works. We now live in Silverton Oregon and she works for the VA as an NP in primary care. I work as much as the social security rules allow to refresh the cruising kitty.
Allymar is fast getting to cruising trim after a rough cosmetic winter on the Oregon coast. Lots of that green color that seems to appear so easily. So, besides the usual mechanical fitting out, there is the job of trying to remove the green from the canvas and re varnishing the bright work.
Plan is to leave just after the first of September to go south. On the schedule of ports are Eureka and Humboldt Bay, San Fran, Monterey, San Simeon, the Channel Islands and finally San Diego where we will do the Ha Ha. I must admit that it was a bit "too many people" last year, but the chance to meet fellow sailors makes it worthwhile.
Silverton versus Ashland and the Rogue valley: Cooler, more people, less transplant Californians, more traffic and crazy drivers, less pollution (at least here in Silverton), really miss my friends, great garden space. The move here was hard for me as so much of my life was in Ashland.

Solid ground and dirty gardening hands.

Ken

Finally pictures from Mexico. December 1 2008

2008-12-01T12:22:00.000-08:00

1. Look at all the sailboats at the start of leg 3 of the HaHa.

2. Look at the crowd of HaHa'ers partying on the beach at Bahia Tortuga. A good time was had by all.

3. Beautiful anchorage in the Sea of Cortez. You anchor in the deeper water where it is a darker blue.

4. Baja is a desert with cactus. Interesting cactus and a desert near the water.

5. The train station in Portland the day I left for Mexico to do the HaHa.

6. Not the best picture as the Dolphin would not stand (swim) still. At night they looked like torpedoes attacking the boat in the phosphorense. They are fast and move towards and away from the boat with suprising speed and agility.

I was not able to post any pictures of the day of the dead. I did not feel comfortable in bringing my camera to what was a rather personal and religious demonstration of their relationship with their ancestors. Not at all like our Halloween night.

I am home in Grand Ronde Oregon where Harp is employed as a Nurse Practitioner at an Indian reservation. She has idea that I will make a good house husband while I am here. Shop and clean is my middle name. I need to get to the storage trailer to get some warm clothes. I am still dressed for Mexico with shorts and hawaiian shirts.

Plan is to do some part time therapy work and follow her wherever she goes with her work (maybe even Wisconsin). We plan to restart our travels on Allymar in August 2009.

Fair winds and holiday greetings

Ken

Baja Sur California November 15th 2008

2008-11-16T10:56:00.000-08:00

Finally have accessd to a computer with sufficent search power to get to the blog and time to add to the content.

It has been quite the time since I left in May. Rounded the top of Vancouver Island and now the bottom of Baja. Two capes to put in the ol memory book. Just wish Harp had done both of them with me.

I am currently in La Paz and will be leaving tomorrow to travel north to visit 2 islands prior to coming home to Oregon on Thanksgiving day. It has been the great adventure so far: Left San Diego and sailed down the outside of baja stopping at Bahia Tortugas, Bahia Santa Maria and finally Cabo San Lucas. Cabo is everything as advertised and less. In your face huckterism, loud music and gas guzzling power boats. The outside is quiet, without much development and lovely in its starkness. Did have the opportunity to spend time with the locals during the Day of the Dead celebration (our halloween). That day means a different thing down here and is a religious and secular feast day. They celebrate their ancestors with flowers and made up graves. They also want candy for the kids. Luckily I did get back to the boat before all the pngas stopped running.
Santa Maria was a sad time as I had to leave Vinsang. Being yelled at, demeaned by the skipper and feeling no sense of being thanked for what I was doing just got to be too much. Hated to jump ship, but when someone volunteered to take our places the decision was easy. I got a position on a 57 foot cat and had the chance to try out sailing on the "dark side". My shipmate Debbie also found another ride to cabo. Just never know what will happen do you. I was ready to find a ride back to the states with a local if a boat ride did not come up, but the other fellow boat travelers took care of us.

North from Cabo to la Paz was a three day trip stopping at Bahia los Friaries, Bahia De Los Mortes and another unnamed bahia. La Paz is everything Cabo was not. A real town with real people living their lives. Walked all over town and no one asked me to purchase weed or look at porn. A blessing. I am on a Contessa 32 with Paul out of Maple Bay. Vancouver Island, B.C.

As much as this is a grand adventure, I miss doing it with Harp on our own boat. Living out of a small bag and not having my stuff is tiring. So to fly home (with an 11 hour layover in Guadalahara) is in the books. Hope to add to this before I return.

From sunny La Paz

Fair Winds

Ken

Finally Pictures

2008-10-19T15:41:00.001-07:00

Sent these from Grand Ronde Oregon where Harp is working as a FNP at a native health clinic. Flew to see her for 3 days and it was a great visit.

Back to San Diego tomorrow to get ready to go down the coast of Baja to La Paz.

Pictures are of the crew of SeaHorse and skipper Glenn at the old post office in San Simeon, San Francisco Bay skyline, sunset from sausalito, shoreline north of San Simeon Bay, off shore looking at SeaHorse, San Diego with a carrier.

San Diego October 16th 2008

2008-10-16T12:04:00.000-07:00

Hello from Pier 32 marina in San Diego
Arrived here yesterday after an overnight sail from Santa Barbara. The full moon, dolphins in the moonlight, minimal traffic (other boats) and good music on the I Pod. Rode the Santana's as far as possible then the northwesterterlies picked back up after Catalina Island. I really love the night passages when it is warm and not as moist as off the Oregon and northern california coasts. Quite apparent why this area is so over populated.
Will leave for Mexico as part of the baja Ha Ha rally of 180 sailboats. We plan to go offshore some distance to get out of the mess of boats. It seems that many of the southern california boats hug the coast and even motor. Our plan is to sail it. One more crew member will be joining us soon (Debra from Michigan).
Most of the trip down Baja will be down wind and I hope to set the twin downwind sails for the first time. Glen has them on the boat but has never used them.
Although sailing can be hard work and has the potential (like most things that have meaning) for danger. I really love this opportunity to do something I have dreamed of doing for years. Nights like the last few make you forget the wet 35 knot rolly seas nights of the past. The guide books are correct in that the weather really changes for the better as you round Point Conception. Wake up in the morning and not have to put on a coat. T shirts and shorts. yahoo.
My job now is to scout out for next year with Harp. I do know we will not be going to the spiffy marinas. There are very good places to anchor that give one access to the city without that cost. The coast has many excellent small protected harbors where we could anchor, and then there is Santa Cruz and Catalina islands which we did not stop at at all.
I will be flying to Portland tomorrow to see Harp and really look forward to seeing her again. The ability too travel in a few short hours what took weeks on a boat staggers my mind. Slow food. Slow travel and slow days in this adventure are the goals.
A toast to my mom on her birthday this Oct 18th. Mary Elizabeth Heaney Gosling
I still have not figured out how to attach pictures. Sorry
Love to all
Aloha
Ken

Santo Barbara California

2008-10-13T11:26:00.000-07:00

Hello to all from Ken

I have moved my flag to Vindsang, a very similar boat to AllyMar. We are currently in Santa Barbara California waiting out the Santana winds that blow down the canyons and out to the pacific. We have had a fantastic time going south, spending time in SanFrancisco at a marina in Alameda, Santa Cruz (where the fireworks from the boardwalk was our greeting as we came in at midnight), a wonderful anchorage off the Hearst Castle, Morro Bay and now Santa Barbara. Whales (diving under the boat), dive bombing pelicans, seals, sea otters, dolphins and finally now as the weather has warmed beach volleyball. My skipper is named Glenn and he hales from Bellingham Washington.

Hopefully the next step will be to Santa Crus Island. It all depends upon the winds as today there is no anchorage on the eastern side of the island due to the winds. As this entire summer has been passing; time and weather will tell. To finally have a summer is great and makes me thankful for the weather of the Rogue Valley.

On a sad note I must mention the passing of my mother. I was stopping off in Chico to see her on my way down to San Fran when I discovered she had died 6 days previous. Quite the shock. She was a sweet woman and had nothing bad to say about anyone ever. I and the rest of her family will miss her a lot. She did live to 1 month before her 91st, so quite a life.

It is hard to find a computer to update this blog and I will try to be more timely in the future and find out how to uplink pictures in a computer that is not mine.

Aloha and fair winds to all

Ken

Making Lemonade September 16, 2008

2008-09-16T11:35:00.000-07:00

Well, the best laid plans can change, and they have. My wife/partner "Harp" has developed some mechanical problems (health related, physically limiting but not life threatning) that make it necessary that she get off Allymar for a time to heal. We have put Allymar to bed for the winter in WinchesterBay and have changed our plans for the immediate future. I will be hopefully continue the trip to Mexico on a sister boat to Allymar "sv/Vindsang" starting in late September, and she will heal herself and return to working as a Nurse Practitioner.

Not the schedule we planned, but the best for the short term. I will be able to scope out the Mexico scene and have greater sailing skills prior to our re-starting the trip next year. She will have had the time to sail without further injury and aggravation. Traveling without her will be carrying around a big hole where she should be and I will miss her a lot. I appreciate her openness in giving me the opportunity to continue without her for a while.

I expect to return to the states (hopefully with a democratic president) in mid Janaury 2009. If McCain wins, there might not be a reason to return except to gather up Harp and go. I sure hope the electorate has the intelligence to see the republicans for what they are, and choose another path for this country besides one of invasion, loss of personal liberties and sell out to the rich.

See you all down the waves.

Ken

September 9, 2008 Boatless in Ashland

2008-09-09T08:52:00.000-07:00

Family and (most) friends have been visited. Jobs that needed a wood shop have been finished. Re-provisioning at Costco and Shop & Kart is done. Its back to Allymar and so long to Ashland. Hopefully everything will fit in the rental car for the trip back to Winchester Bay this afternoon. The biggest item to move is the inflatable dingy to replace the wood one that would not last a day going through the surf in Mexico.
We will leave Winchester Bay in a few days to go south. Plan is to stop near or in San Francisco Bay and than to the North Channel Islands and Santa Catalina Island before Mexico.
Many thanks to Dick and Diane for a wonderful place to stay here in Ashland. Many thanks to Cyd for storing our trailer and all its "landfall" stuff.
Being on solid land, having a kitchen rather than a galley, not having to pump the head and sleeping in a real bed has been a pleasant break, but I look forward to the turn on Allymar's hull as she goes south. Looking at the moon last night brings the possibility for a full moon trip down the coast, a magical time as your eyes adjust to the moonlight and the seeing is better than I ever expected.
May autumn bring all the best "Indian Summer" of your lives.

Fair Winds and Smooth Seas

Ken

August 27th 2008

2008-08-27T09:43:00.000-07:00

We are back at Winchester Bay Oregon after coming down the coast from Washington . Planned to get to Brookings or Crescent city, but weather once again has stopped the train. We will leave Allymar here and go to the Rogue Valley and do all the stuff that will make the trip to California and then Mexico possible. Thanks to friends we have a place to stay. It is good to be home again and we look forward to seeing our friends again.

Want to thank Nina Wagaman for the great picture she took of Allymar with all her sails flying and the two of us waving.

Coming down the coast is a pleasure compared to going north. Sails rather than motor and until today warmer weather. Took a great video yesterday and will try to atttach it to the next posting.

Take care

Ken

2008-08-17T19:46:00.000-07:00

August 17th 2008 Westport Washington

2008-08-17T12:49:00.000-07:00

Was sitting on Allymar yesterday when a fellow walked up and said "Do you know me?" I answered "I do now". He was looking at Allymar as if he was seeing an old friend. He introduced himself as Bob Kniermien, and had sold NINFA (Allymars previous name) to the man I purchased her from. His imprint remains on her today in the interior wood and stain glass, compass binnacle, cabin top skylight and many of the things we like so much about her. It was a pleasure to meet him and see his pleasure in return. I hope to be a positive about the next owner as he was. Thanks Bob!!

We are back in the land of military customs officials, (can't go below when they go through cabinets and drawers, get lectured on all the documents we need to have, want to look at our money and etc). Yep, the good old USA. I seem to always forget how much we have moved down the road to oppressive government control of its citizens each time I leave the country. Of
course I did not mention my feelings to the officer, as we would most likely be in Gitmo by now.

Heading further down the coast as the weather allows.

live slow, sail fast

Ken

August 9,2008 Tofino, Western Vancouver Island

2008-08-09T15:30:00.000-07:00

Aloha

Well, we have wended our way further south on the outside of Vancouver Island and are tied up to the government dock in Tofino. I was here last in 1971 and how this place has changed. What was a small isolated town is now a bustling gentrified city with art galleries, upscale and expensive restaurants and the constant drone of float planes and boats taking people to the hot springs and whale watching. It is good to walk on be on land as we have become somewhat tired of the constant water, rock and trees as our landscape of view. Although it is gorgeous up here, it is all the same, and one cove seems to morf into the next without much difference, and it is very difficult to get off the boat and go for a hike. Where the water ends the rocks begin followed by inpenetrable rain forest. We look forward to dirt, trees, walkable terrain and then water soon. Not to complain but a little diversity would be appreciated.
Harp had the trifecta on her 50th birthday. She was able to pet an orange cat, paddle a canoe and was given a bottle of red wine by the Nootka lighthouse. Spend the day in Friendly Cove on Nootka Island. Although the cake was a bit under done, it was eaten with gusto.
We will be heading further south when the weather allows (southerlies today) and then back to Oregon for a rest and reprovisioning stop. We expect to leave Allymar in Brookings and travel to the Rogue Valley and Chico California. My mother fractured her hip recently and a visit is mandatory.
We continue to meet great fellow boaters and appreciate the opportunity to have that bit of community when it presents itself. We meet and greet the same boats more than once as we all travel in the same direction at different speeds and to different anchorages. Some are even going to Mexico this winter.
If anyone wants to join us for the sail from Vancouver Island to Brookings (with a stop at Tillamook), contact us ASAP. We expect to leave Ucluelet as soon as possible after we pick up our mail on the 15th. On a warmer note the trip further south to Southern California (mid September) promises to be warmer and crew for that journey would be appreciated. Although sailing offshore is not always fun and games, the opportunity to go off shore does have that "adventure" opportunity. Let us know.

Fair winds and kind seas to all

Ken

First Mate’s LogJuly 25, 2008Walters Cove, Kyuquot Inlet West side, Vancouver Island

2008-08-01T09:36:00.000-07:00

An historic First Nation's Treaty signing, and we were there

I hate to say it, but my mood is weather dependent. And what a difference a day makes.
Spirits were high in Walter’s Cove on Thursday July 24th, as that is the day the supply ship Uchuck III arives in Walters Cove. There is no road here, you either come by sea or by air. We also were fortunate to stumble upon and arrive on the day of a very important and historic treaty signing between the Canadian government and several West coast Vancouver Island tribes, or as they prefer, bands.
I had just got off AllyMar, and took the garbage to the dumpster and found that it was full, and had a wooden pallet on top to keep the lid closed, way too heavy for me to lift. “Now how am I going to do this,” I muttered to myself, when I heard a voice from behind offering to help me. Ken (another one!) was a burly stout very gregarious Canadian who talked to me from that moment on like he’d known me my whole life. And he was a fount of information, giving in non stop. He told me about “ a great and momentous celebration” that was occurring tonight, “and Mike De Jong is being flown in,” the Minister of Aboriginal Relations and Reconciliation. Burly Ken was heading home on the Uchuck in the morning with his buddy Tom, the end of their kayak trip in the Islands. “But I see 3 kayaks,” I said. His other buddy had to be transported out because he burned his foot at their campfire. He towed in his friend’s Kayak. “Now he owes you,” I told him. Ken was so outgoing and engaging, I wondered what he did for a living. “I have a machine shop.” Such wasted talent, he could have been the Master of Ceremonies for this night’s event.
“All are invited to the ceremony,” we were told by the girl at the store, who had consulted her aunt. Even a couple of no nothing gringos , so we crossed the little cove to the res, and sat in the back of the room, trying to at least look Canadian . They had prepared a meal for all of us. We had already eaten and intended to miss the meal by arriving at 6:30, when the ceremony was scheduled to begin, but at 6:30 they hadn’t served dinner yet. We were each given a plate with ham, potato salad, pineapple salad and green beans.
The minister De Jong was easy to spot--one of the few guys with a dinner jacket on. He was a very effectual politician, playing to the crowd, making jokes when the kids were unruly and noisy. Ken introduced us to another Canadian, Glenn who owns a kayak guide business WestCoastAdventures.com. I asked him if he felt the Minister was sincere. He bit his lip and thought long and hard. “I think he gets it.”
There was drumming, singing and dancing, and then we actually witnessed the signing of 14 copies of an inches thick document, see photo of Witness Book. Thanks to Ken the kayaker pointing us out to him, I had a chance to ask Minister De Jong just what the treaty signified. “It gives back to the First Nations people the jurisdiction of their historic ancestral land, to manage as they see fit, within the context of Canadian law.” I suspected that they could have taken a cue from our forefathers, writing the Constitution on one page. Life gets complicated tho I guess, after so many years of exploitation, it takes a few trees worth of paper to make it all right.
Java the Hut
The Canadian kayaker women had told me about the one-of-a-kind drive up coffee kiosk at Walters Cove. It had even received front page billing earlier this month in a local paper. A kilometer by pathway, it was made for float by through, on the way out of the cove. A sodden path it was when I skirted the puddles on or last morning at Walters Cove. The previous day, it had been sunny, and Eric the owner, and a carpenter working with him, Ross, took a break to chat. Eric was a sweet an engaging man, former Jewish New Yorker who liked to teach the Native Americans (who were clearly fond of him) Yiddish. “they love Yiddish, it’s very similar to their own language.” Must be a Jewish-Native American connection somewhere…..
Ross’s wife was the nurse at the local medical outpost. Her contracted was for 8 weeks on, 8 weeks off, and she had to be within 15 minutes of the office 24/7, plus her regular 40 hours a week. “She’s been up all night with heart attack victims, has to medivac seriously injured out.” She took care of Ken the Kayaker’s friends’ third degree burn. I asked him about diabetes. “Oh ya sure, 60% of those people at the ceremony have diabetes. They love their chum-is, their native word for dessert, literally ‘sweet’. They’ll sit around after dinner for an hour and a half and then pile their plates high with cake and ice cream, and eat it all. It’s incredible.” He said that before the white man came, they used to eat fruit. So his wife is trying to get them to exchange chocolate cake for cherries. “It’s slow going.” They used to have apple trees on the island they lived on previously, but haven’t planted any at Walters Cove.
Here Rusty!
What’s chocolate, white and love all over? A chocolate lab named Rusty, who I had a major love fest with, see photo. “He’s not my dog, but he loves me, and follows me everywhere”, Eric said. I told Ken I was going to get a mellow chocolate lab when we return to land life. But for now, a snoring Rusty on my lap will have to do.

First Mates Log July 30 2008 Tahsis

2008-08-01T09:21:00.000-07:00

FirstMate’s log
July30th, 2008
Tahsis Inlet
Welcome to Winter
“An unseasonably strong low pressure front of 990 millibars is stationary over central Vancouver Island” declared Environment Canada over our VHF radio station. The Canadian weather service is always correct, if not always accurate (does that sound like politician speak?) They predict that a storm is coming, but the timing and duration is not always correct. This storm was to have lasted a mere couple of days, but as I write we are well into our fourth day (Ken says it’s been atleast a year) and perhaps things will lighten tomorrow. I have made a request of God to please do something only he/she can do, and that is give me a sunny day on August 2nd, my fiftieth birthday. And a fish. I want to catch a fish. I would take nearly any good tasting retainable fish, as defined by Canadian fisheries, but a salmon or a halibut would really do the trick to mark this for what it is, a half century of birthdays. If you love me God……..I tell Ken my biggest fear is that I will catch a fish that is too big to land, but then at least I’d have a one-that-got-away story, which would certainly be a start.
Not that I’m complaining about the weather or anything, but the locals are. Except the one and only waitress here. “Good tips. When the fishing is bad and the weather is worse, the drinking increases and the tips great.” Ah to be young , have nice hair and be tipped for it.
The folks that own this resort have a condo to which they retire to every November in Las Barillas in the Sea of Cortes. On the wall of their restaurant they have 2 plaques with what appear to be giant golf tees mounted. Look a little closer and on the plaque there is a photo of him and her and their guy-normous finfish--a sailfish and a sword fish. She caught the biggest one, within 10 pounds of the women’s world record. The ‘golf tees’ are the bills off these trophy fish. They caught them in the Sea of Cortes in 2004. What an accomplishment.
I spoke with John the owner, bemoaning my poor success at fishing. We went through it all again, how I need to rig our gear and where I need to go where the fish actually are (did you hear the one about the man who lost his watch? Where did he lose it? ‘Over there’ Then why are you looking here? ‘Because the light’s better). Sometimes where the fish are is not always the most convenient location for the sailboat eg a lee shore. So dear readers, if you wish me a happy birthday, say a prayer for the nee fisherwoman on her birthday--may she catch a fish in the sun!!

First Mate's Log Brooks Peninsula July 23rd

2008-07-31T14:51:00.000-07:00

For those of you paying attention, Brooks Peninsula came BEFORE The Bunsby's.

Brooks Peninsula is a dividing line on Vancouver Island: it separates colder conditions above, to a more temperate environment below. It also requires a good weather window, and once around it, we could relax our pace a little.
As land masses go, Brooks is fairly geometrical, with straight lines, but jutting at an irregular angle, like a tooth that needs orthodontia. On it's southern expanse is an environment that is nearly absent anywhere north--whitesand beaches in long expanses. They appear as whitemarks--like a swath of White Out between ocean and rock. But, we cut ourselves another line, one that took us further south.
Winds were high as we headed southwest around the point, but they were such that we were on a downwind broadreach, and we rose over the rollers gracefully and comfortably, because AllyMar was doing what she was built to do, saildownwind.
"Shall we turn the engine down honey?" I said to Ken, after we had 3 sails up and we were consistently cruising at 6 plus knots. "No, I want to get around this cape as quickly as possible." Shoals and isolated rocks dot this area, some of them just barely covered at low water, anxious and reaching to catch a 4 ton keel.
We flew along, comfortably and warm under a bright sun and sea. At the tip of Cape Cook lies Solander Island, a refuge for pelagic birds. I spied rounded white bellies on fast beating shortwings, Solander Puffins.
On 360 degree view, a tall sail was seen far aft. We tracked it, as it made it’s way from aft of starboard, to aft of port, then cut inside Solander Island as we went outside. The were heading for the beaches on the southside of Brooks, and they disappeared quickly after we rounded the Cape. We headed to the Bunsby Islands, named after a Charles Dicken’s character.

First Mate's Log The Bunsby's July 25th

2008-07-31T14:45:00.000-07:00

First Mate’s Log
July 25th 2008
The Bunsby Islands
You may wonder how we know where to go, where the anchorages are good, and how we find out where to get fuel, ice for the icebox, and an occasional civilized shower. There are several excellent cruising guides that we use. In all of them the Bunsby Islands south of Cape Cook were recommended. We found Cozumel sands, some obliging star fish and some hearty Canadian women sea kayakers.
The Bunsbys are a popular destination for kayakers, who explore this protected group. The tidal changes reveal a cornicopia of marine life. We found a crevice in a reef rock that had a column of anemones, starfish, mussles, clams, crab and of course kelps.
It had been weeks since I had any significant female company. We anchored of the South Cove, which faced the ocean with just a low rocky rise but was protected nonetheless. We were also next to a beach, a perfect beach for kayakers to make camp. There were 7 or so, women who had gotten together like this for 14 years, Kayaking on the white beaches of the south Brooks and exploring the Bunsbys. “I’m going to make them some chocolate chip cookies” I said to Ken, “and see if Canadian women have as much of a chocolate gene as American women.” They do! Chocolate can dissolve any barrier. I wish to report that the sisterhood is strong, that we all are concerned about the same injustices. Our lives are made of the same fabric, interwoven. Our hearts, Canadian and American, are in the same various states of conviviality with the opposite sex. Our careers, it seemed, suffered the same difficulties. Experiencing our love of the water and it’s wild lands, whether with a double bladed paddle or on the wind, we also shared. Women open their lives to each other as comfortably as opening a newly minted book it seemed. That and chocolate, and good reads, and tea, and candies, and friendship.

July 23rd, Klakish Inlet

2008-07-30T21:43:00.000-07:00

July 23 2008
Klakish Inlet
West Side Vancouver Island
For a completely different experience, try Klakish Inlet. The world is a thousand miles away once we made through the skinny spot to get to Klakish Inlet. From the big wide ocean we had to negotiate a very narrow steepsided gorge of 30 yards or so. Within, there was one lake sized power boat, you know, like a ski boat, and I wondered how he made it there. This must have been a favorite place for the Native Americans, very secluded and hidden.
As do many of these inlets, there was a creek draining into it from the head. We took the dinghy at sunset, with the shadows lengthening on the spruce green mountains above. The water was like glass, and we came just as the tide was changing: the eelgrass waved us in and up the creek, and then gently gestured goodbye on our way back to AllyMar.

Winter Harbour Jully 22,2008

2008-07-30T21:41:00.000-07:00

First Mates Log
July 22, 2008
Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound
West Side Vancouver Island
The word fishing is synonymous with many places On Van Island, but The Outpost at Winter Harbour has a very high rate of success at catching fish. The dock has a viewing rack apon which the fishermen hang their prize catches for all to see. Mostly men, but we met one woman in the sorriest excuse for a Laundromat/shower who had caught three ‘springs’--Coho salmon. I saw a huge Halibut on the trophy rack and learned later that it weighed 54 pounds. If only I were having such luck!
Winter Harbour is distinguished by a boardwalk that snakes along the northern edge of the harbour. It was from this boardwalk that I got some very incredible Canadian Sea Eagle pictures! I commend and thank Ken for his patience in waiting while I shot a video of a mature bird ripping into a good sized salmon. Oh happy day for Cindy Harper the birdwatcher/photographer!

First Mate’s Log July 22nd, Cape Scott around the top

2008-07-30T21:28:00.000-07:00

We awoke at 11 pm to do the passage around the top of Vancouver Island. We decided to do this at night, even though it can be somewhat treacherous, because we needed to leave on an ebb tide, and there wasn’t going to be a morning ebb tide for 4-5 days. We needed a morning ebb tide because in the afternoons the winds or too strong. I was excited and anxious, but ready to do it.
My attire for this evening engagement included leggings, ski pants and off shore bib overalls, 2 pairs of wool socks, rubber boots. Above, I wore a skin tight nylon camisole, long sleeve tee shirt, wool sweater, down vest, water resistant coat and off shore jacket. It has a very stylish high collar, but as for accessories I wore a headband, a wool hat, a polypro neck warmer. Quite the cruising fashion statement.
The moon was gorgeous, the stars were out and we haven’t seen the stars much this trip. The water was glassy---for a short time.
There are two general tide times, neap tides and spring tides. Springtides occur at full and new moon, when the moon and sun exert their greatest effects. Neap tides occur at quarter moon and half moon times. Since we crossed during full moon, the tides were at their strongest.
Ken took a nap at 1 am. We were making very good time since we had the ebb pushing us. Ken had laid in a track in the Garmin GPS to pass north of the Cape, so all I had to do was watch for ships (there were none until morning when we saw a guy-enormous cruise vessel heading north) and verify our position. As we approached the Cape, the seas became confused and erratic. This was due to the tremendous multi-directional movement of water and the effects of wind and waves in that area, and that is what makes capes and other points of land dangerous. We were under the influence of the ebb making the turn over the top of the island, the draining ebb coming down from Queen Charlotte Sound, and the 20 or so knots of wind blowing down from the north.
And it was the wind and the waves that did me in. The two gentleman who had sailed up from Seattle followed us and were within visual range the entire trip. I tried to avoid watching their boat buck and heave, and wished they would put a little more sea room between us. Unfortunately, I had not taken any anti-nausea meds and I became very seasick. Seasickness is compounded by being cold, and I was shivering cold within just a few hours.
I called Ken up at 3:30am and he quickly surmised that the seas would be calmer with more distance from the Cape, so he moved us a few degrees to the northwest and things did moderate some. Good thing he came to life as I am practically non-functional when ill. When we finally headed down, south, the swells and wind were on our tail, something we have been waiting for since someone said ‘lets go north’ and we executed this plan!!
One thing I hold onto when I’m cold and upchucking is something my wise father used to say--”This too will pass.” Though exhausted, we motored into Winter Harbour around 10 in the morning. It turned out to be a glorious day, and we lazed in the sun, drifting in and out of sleep, hearing the snorts and sonorous inhalations of the sea otters who dine heartily on shellfish in Quatsino Sound.

First Mate’s Log

2008-07-30T21:16:00.000-07:00

Port Hrdy to Bull Harbour
The Canadian Turkey Vulture
I have identified a bird in Canada, which resembles our humble Turkey Vulture from the Rogue Valley in appearance and numbers. It may be a subspecies, our a separate species entirely but it does share many of the Vultures characteristics. It is often seen in groups, roosting in trees or on pilings or on breakwaters. It does a lot of sitting around, but always has it’s eye out for an easy meal. It eats carrion, but prefers fresh kills. It appears to have excellent eyesight, and perhaps relies more on sight than smell as it searches for food than the Turkey Vulture does. We were privileged to an up close and personal display of it’s hunting prowess when it dove just behind our dinghy. It eased close to the water, then pulled up abruptly within inches of the surface. Perhaps it’s prey dove just then. We were trolling with a flasher, it’s action reflecting the sun’s light on the surface of the water. It pulled up as it approached though, somehow realizing that what it thought was a fish was too good looking to be true.
It has a much more distinctive call than the Turkey Vulture, which doesn’t have a call at all. When heard from the cockpit after sharing a fine meal with friends and imbibing perhaps too much wine, it’s call sounds like a high pitched cackling laugh.
Just like Turkey Vultures, it can be spotted soaring in great circles at higher and higher elevations on it’s great broad wings. Unlike the tilting TV however, it soars on steady wings, it’s dihedral being flat rather than V shaped. It’s head in flight is much more prominent than that of our Turkey Vulture.
The locals pay no attention to these birds as they are so plentiful, though one man told us that it has made a come backing the past 15 years or so since DDT was eliminated.
It has a thick yellow bill, not unlike the Turkey Vulture for ripping flesh. Turkey Vultures have just one color phase or morphology, this bird appears to have both a dark phase blotchy as well as a two toned, double ender color scheme which lends credence to the idea that it may likely be another species all together.
I’ve enclosed a few photos in case any of you could help out with identification……
At last, Port Hardy
Port Hardy, while sharing many of the same characteristics as other North Vancouver Island towns--as history of logging and fishing, a plentiful First Native population, like all towns if has it’s unique features. The grocery store chain here is called Overwaitea. They very kindly have an explanatory plaque at check out for all of the ignorant tourists who do what I did, which was to ask the checker “What does the name of your store mean and how do you pronounce it?” She answered me kindly Canadian style and pointed at the commemorative sign. Bunches of years ago, a clerk in a frontier store measured out 18 ounces of tea for a customer instead of the usual 16 ounces, thus becoming the over-weight tea merchant. A supermarket is born! Such were it’s humble beginnings.
Our weather was good in Port Hardy, and everyday went something like this: am woke to cloudy but calm skies. Clouds would dissipate around noon, or 10 or 2, and the wind would kick up from the north. If we were away from the docks, the sun warmed us quickly, but on the water it felt perhaps colder even than in the cloudy morning. We would head out from the dock with down vest and jacket bracing against the wind, and within one turn of the corner off the port off they would come. I’m a slow learner I guess--I didn’t figure this out until our last day there…..
We met some folks, Demi (accent on the last syllable ) and Holly who were full time cruisers for the past 4 years. They called home a 40-something foot catamaran that made our 38 foot mono-hull look like an efficiency apartment next their penthouse. They had wintered twice in Mexico and twice in front of the Empress Hotel in Victoria. They had sold their home in Colorado to buy their catamaran. They kindly invited us to tea (we brought the cookies) and we shared stories and looked at charts. They like we, had taken the only accommodation available at the cheap rate moorage fisherman’s dock, as the trendy Quarterdeck Marina had been full. The next morning they were gone, but had not left--we saw them the following day pulling out from Quarterdeck to head north up the coast. A guess 3 times the charge was worth it to be amongst like kind.
To Bull Harbour
Bull Harbour is the jump off point to head around the top of Vancouver Island via Cape Scott. When leaving Bull Harbour, it is necessary to go through Nahwitti Bar. This bar, like other bars, is an area of water where the ocean enters are much narrower passage, concentrating the force of the waves and sea strength. Nahwitti Bar is much respected by yachtsman and is generally run only at slack tide.
Bull Harbour was reached via Goletas Channel (see photo). Due to circumstances, we took Goletas Channel on a rising tide against us. Early on, the wind was against us as well, and Ken looked at our options to duck out of another upwind passage (“they are almost over honey I swear”) instead settled down when he realized that our alternates were few (see Ken reading in his full foulies). Fortunately, the wind calmed down and we hugged the northern shore thus being able to make way at an average of 5 knots.
We had been followed into Bull Harbour by another sailboat. Their plan was the same as ours--they were circumnavigating the Island, but were doing it at top speed, especially for a sailboat; they went from Seattle to Bull Harbour in 5 days!!! Bob and Leo are retired, so I’m not sure what they’re hurry was. I heard one of them say to the other when they were setting the anchor “how much chain should we put out?”, and Ken said they were still working under the assumption that flood tide moved north, which is the way it is south of Desolation Sound with in the southern half of Vancouver Island and the Inside Passage.
Hope Island is an Indian Reserve--see photo. It was under grey and dreary skies that we explored this just barely inhabited island. Acorrding to Waggoner’s Cruising Guide, depending on the time of year, between 2 and 30 individuals from the Tlatalisikwala Native band live here. And one dog--see photo. It was a somber place, perhaps reflecting injustices past or the bone weary fatigue of mariners and natives having made it around Cape Scott, or across Queen Charlotte Sound from the north.
A narrow land bridge separates Bull Harbour from Roller Bay on the north side of the Island. Roller Bay receives the full brunt of the Pacific wind and waves, and it’s rocky beach is testament to that with it’s perfectly smooth egg-like rocks--see photo. Notice all the Canadian Turkey Vultures here as well.

Vancouver Island West Coast July 30, 2008

2008-07-30T18:00:00.000-07:00

Ahoy from Westview marina in Tahsis Nootka Sound.
Tahsis is about 1/3 of the way down the outside of Vancouver Island on the Pacific (out) side. Great scenery, lovely coves to spend the night, friendly boaters and local residents. Only thing missing is the sun. Can't really say that we have had any summer yet or at least as we know summer. Left Port hardy and crossed over the top of the island after a stop in Bull Harbor. Since then we have cove and port hopped. Usually we had the cove to ourselves or only shared it with one other boat. Finally have the wind on the stern and can dom more sailing and less motoring. One highlight of the bwestside was being witnesses to the signing of the most recent treaty between the Canadian government and the local first nation tribe concerning ownership of their lives and land. I have Harp to thank for finding out about it and urging me to go to the gathering.
Right now I am sitting before a fire under a canopy on Jimmy Buffet Blvd in a fishing marina. Must get a corona later. Oh to dream of warm Mexican and South Pacific days

Ken

Plans in flux

2008-07-16T13:14:00.000-07:00

Now that we have our Garmin card and are ready to go around the outside, the current is not with us during the day for another week. By then a storm front which is brewing off the coast will have arrived. We have several options, but must keep our focus on heading south as soon as we can. We may have an opportunity to round Cape Scott in the full moon light. Doesn't that sound romantic? At any rate, we will mark our northern most reach with an innvocation to the wind gods to now be always at our back. Stay tuned.............

Canadian heros

2008-07-16T12:56:00.000-07:00

1st Mates Log
July 10th, 2008
Tracy Harbour, Napier Bay
North Broughton Island
BC Canada

Is that Bear Musk? Or just Ken?
Sailing is a lot like camping, in that you don’t always get to take a shower when you want to. Truth be told, Ken is much more of a got-to-take-a-shower-everyday person than I am, since I only break a sweat when the temperature hits about 80 degrees. Since we are above the 50th parallel and over the water, the only spot that comes close to 80 degrees is the engine room. Nevertheless, after a week or so even I enjoy a hot shower. We have a solar shower, which is a 5 gallon bag that is clear on one side and black on the other. Off the coast of BC it takes nearly all day to heat up to a decent temperature. But sailors don‘t ‘waste‘ precious drinking water on showers. Since we don’t go to marinas very often, we are always on the look out for a freshwater creek to fill our solar shower with. As we motored the dinghy around Napier Bay, we were disappointed that we didn’t see any creek outflows. The shower would have to wait for another day.
“Napier Bay has good holding but watch for the submerged pipeline that crosses the anchoring ground” said the guide book. There were already two boats anchored, one a power boater and the other a sloop. The sloop had 2 fishing lines out on either side, but we carefully motored around him as he was near where we wanted to drop our anchor. There sat a peaceful gray haired gentleman reading in the cockpit. “Excuse me,” Ken hailed him, “do you know where the pipeline is situated? There’s no indication on the chart.” The man briefly looked up from his book and said “No, don’t.”
Now most boaters we have met, especially Canadians, have been friendly with advice and eager to engage in the fine and tricky art of anchoring (see Anchoring 101-104). “He must be having a bad day” I told Ken, but I mentally wrote him off as Not A Very Nice Canadian. We anchored without any assistance from the Crabby Canadian, and headed out into the dinghy to see what there was to see.
Before we left, a couple on a power boat motored over. “Do you have any dogs?” I heard them say from down below. My interested was piqued and I ran on deck.
“No,” Ken said, “Why?”
“We went to take our dogs ashore to do their duty and standing just above the shore, was a wolf!” the woman exclaimed. “We just wanted to warn you in case you had any dogs, just to be aware.”
“Thanks for the warning,” Ken said, with a smirky smile on his face. I looked down into their dinghy and saw the reason for his reaction: there in the bottom of their boat was not one, not two, but FOUR bite sized dogs, all with little red top knot ribbons in their hair! I smiled and remembered that I had had a brief encounter with them in Port McNeill. The man was walking two of the dogs, and I smiled cordially after him. I turned around and then saw her, some distance away, with 2 of the identical breed of dog. She looked at me and said, “We look like we’re together don’t we”, to which I responded “Either that or you just met the man of your dreams!”
Ken and I weren’t so sure about the wolf story, but we logged the possibility of wolves with the known threat of bears.
All of these islands have been subject to logging in the past, but North Broughton Is still being logged. This worked to our advantage though, because there were logging roads to hike on. The forest on either side was impenetrably dark. It had been several days since Ken and I had been able to walk around on shore much at all, and we were somewhat boat weary. “I wonder where they’re going to take their wolf food for a walk”, Ken said showing his most genuine dog lover side.

“How far do you want to hike?” Ken asked me. He wanted to continue on down the road, which was getting narrower and narrower, but I’d come about as far as I wanted, and felt a bit wary of going farther. As we walked farther down the now path wide road, I felt more and more uneasy. ‘I smell something bad!” I said to Ken. “It’s not me” he said.
“I don’t like this, it doesn't feel right” I said, and immediately saw a bear sized area that had been bear flattened, and there was fresh bear scat ahead. “Let’s go back.” We then saw bear tracks, and right next to them, cat tracks, as big as my palm. And right next to them, wolf tracks!

Back at the landing, was a shiny red box with Chinese writing on it , like a chocolate confectioner’s chocolate candy box, but it had abear claw sized hole in the middle of it. Next to it was the molded plastic tray from inside,which had a most unusual offering: several 10 milliliter vials of ginseng and Royal Jelly! The labels were only very slightly faded, and almost all of them were completely intact. Chinese timber fallers? Souped up bears?

Looking on the dock where we parked the dinghy, I saw a black pipe coming up from the sea floor, up and over the dock and hanging over the end. There were lots of rolls of black pipe lying around, but this one had water dripping out of it, clear fresh water, solar shower water!

We dinghied back to the boat, and Ken noted that the wind generator had been powering up a storm. “We have to use up some of that power” he said. That may sound silly to those who have always received electric bills, but if the wind charger completely charges the batteries, the power has to be wasted or the batteries will blow up (I guess). What did we need to do that would use up a bunch of power? “ I think I’ll vacuum,” he said. Sure enough, when he turned on the Dirt Devil, it drew 12 amps! After I marveled at the ampere gauge awhile (cheap boat fun) I stepped out on deck to shake out the rugs, when the power boaters with the wolf bait doggies honked their horn at us, and pointed down wind. I turned and looked, and there was a sight you never want to see: about 300 yards aft of the boat was our dinghy! “Holy Toledo, what happened?!” I said.
“Those three half hitches I always tie came loose because of the wave action I guess,” Ken answered. Well thank heaven that 1) we weren’t the only people in the bay, and 2) the wind pushed it in to the cove and not out into the straight. That would have been a super bummer.
Remember that Crabby Canadian? I take it all back. He wasn’t crabby, just...quiet, simply…introspective, only wanted to be left alone. He and his lovely wife had gotten into their dinghy and rescued ours. Even introverts like to play the hero.
We sat in the cockpit after a dinner of crab (I haven’t written my crab story yet), pineapple coleslaw and brownies, and a nightcap of ginseng royal jelly. We considered that it probably had been another good day not to be working. I realized that Ken would likely never smell as bad as a bear, Canadians have big hearts, and surely we would never have to learn any more lessons that involved the dinghy!

What's down there?

2008-07-16T12:49:00.000-07:00

First Mate’s Log July 8, 2008
Vitner sound, Gilford Island
Broughton Archipelago
British Columbia, Canada
I decided to get a fishing license. Neither Ken or I have ever really fished. Since the license cost a whopping $106, plus the cost of lures, I better make this good. How many fish would I have to catch to pay for 100 bucks of fish protein?
I was excited to fish, and then reality it. Catching is one thing, all the rest is something else again. Does this make any sense: you put a hook on the end of a pole and drop it into the vast ocean, and hope you catch something. You can’t see your quarry, you don’t know what’s down there except kelp and logs and debris to catch the line. Would any self respecting land hunter shoot in the dark and hope that he got what he wanted?
I sat in the dinghy and jigged with a very pretty minnow looking lure for (I swear) about five minutes, when I felt like I must have picked up some kelp--the line felt heavier. I reeled it in and there was a bloody fish on the hook! I told Ken I had caught a fish, he looked over and saw that I was obviously not struggling, nor was the pole bent, and he said “No you didn’t!” Indeed the fish, which we later identified as a rock fish looked as if we had had a knock down drag out most-of-the-afternoon struggle, and hung limply from the line. “Gee, those Rock fish really put up a fight eh?” I said to Ken, feeling like I really had the touch. “They must be fatalists” I said “ and know when they‘re hooked, that they might as well through in the towel.”
Ken got me a bucket of salt water to put him in, and after I figured out how to get the hook out (man their flesh is tough)urged me to keep fishing. Inspired, I rowed the dinghy about a quarter mile against the current in order to do some drift fishing. Upon returning to the boat, Ken being ever hopeful of his wife’s new found angling skill, said “Caught anything else for dinner?”
“No honey, but I did catch something else.”
“What’s all that junk in the boat?”, he noticed, which was full of cedar branches, moss and leaves. I had gotten the lure hooked on the bottom, and wondered what my ratio of fish to snags would be in my new found avocation as a great fishing huntress. Being in an inter-tidal area, and not wanting to lose my lucky minnow, I had to figure out how to stop the boat!--and not lose the oars or the pole was starting to slip over the gunwale, and I had nothing to cut the line save my teeth. I quickly weighed the try to save the lure or the pole equation. The fate of being pole-less and unable to fish paled in comparison to the tongue lashing I knew I would receive from my captain.
Letting the line out, I rowed upstream, then took the line in again, but I quickly drifted by the snag. I had to stop the boat, so I rowed to shore, underneath the overhanging cedar boughs. Even along the shore the current was enough to pull the bow out. I stood up and, using the boughs as levers, inched my way towards the snag. I was finally successful at freeing my pretty little minnow.
Nobody talks about the experience of killing a fish, and now I know why--it’s traumatic! I had nothing to stun it with, so I wrapped a towel around him and pithed him with my trusty Leatherman right between his eyes. Though this quickly kills most creatures--cows and people come to mind--his mouth gaped--his yellow-brown flying fins flared, and I felt like I had just committed murder. He flopped and thrashed and flipped and betrayed his earlier representation as a passive fellow. He simply would not sit still for gutting, and, just like a girl, I squeaked and screamed every time he struggled. I felt like a torturess. As if all that writhing wasn’t enough, this guy exuded goo from his pores, you know, like what happens to your nose when you catch a cold. Whatever happened to going to a restaurant and just ordering the catch of the day?
I hoped it would all be worth it. After all the excitement, all I could muster was throwing him in the frying pan. Fresh and surprisingly free of bones , and Ken liked him too. And I figured I only had to catch another 20 just like him to pay for my fishing license. I can’t wait.

Port Hardy on Monday (don't know the date)

2008-07-14T17:56:00.000-07:00

Hello friends and family. We hope your summer is grand and warm.

We are back onVancouver Island after a week in the Broughton Islands. Very interesting place the Broughtons, very few boats, no towns (or villages even), just places to anchor and floating marinas that offer a bit of community with other boaters, (docks rather than anchors all for a hefty overnight price). It was interesting to sail by crouded places like Sullivan Bay and Echo Bay and end up in a beautiful cove for the night. The marinas have helicoptors to ferry guests in and out and dock space for 100 foot yachts. The downside to the Broughtons is the inability to really go onshore. There are no hiking trails and even if there were, the bears do present a challange. We carry pepper spray given to us by a vet we met in Port Neville. In addition to pepper spray he takes his 12 gauge out with him when walking his property. Yesterday we took the dingy and went 6-7 miles back into a lovely lagoon and had the place to ourselves. Did have to get out before the tide changed as the pass we used to get into the lagoonthere had rapids and falls on an ebb current. Don't want to get trapped back there like a kayaker we met did one year. He had to wait 8 hours to get out. That lagoon and its approach to Queen Charlotte Straits was the home to first nations people for 6 -7 thousand years. The middens are huge and beads and other artifacts of their lives are found on the beaches.
We are both looking forward to going over the top soon. Plan is to go to Bull Harbour on Hope Island on Wednesday and over Nawitti Bar on Thursday. We need a bit of civilization every once in a while and Port Hardy is it. We are dockes with the fishing boats and now in a plasure craft harbor. They will be going out in the am to try their luck. The reports are of limited catches and in requested government interference in their livehood. Huuuum.
Health and spirits are good, Allymar is a good and sturdy home, although we three do tend to creak a little every once in a while.

Fairwinds and smooth seas

Ken

2008-07-06T14:37:00.000-07:00

The World’s Grumpiest Marine store Owner
Port McNeill
We had a short list of items needed from the chandlery--12 Volt socket fititng, diesel additive, latex gloves. The owner of the marine store’s reputation preceded him-- we were advised to get our Garmin Westside data card there “ but watch out, the owner is a chauvinist and rather off putting.” Ken bought what he had to there but wouldn’t go back when we needed a guide book for the Broughton’s “That guy was talking to a new employee, young kid, treated him like a piece of dog doo-doo.” Oh Kay. I went in just to meet grumpy Gus, but it was early in the morning and he hadn’t worked up a head of steam yet I guess.
We fortunately didn’t need to spend the 50 bucks to buy the Dreamspeaker Guide for the Broughtons--our favorite guide book series-because as we were standing outside wondering if we should fork out the equivalent of a night’s moorage to buy a book we would use for just a few days, Ed came by. I met him at the Laundromat internet klatch group the day before. “Come on over to the boat, I’ve got 4-5 books I can loan you on the Broughtons.” Such a deal. Plan was to meet him in a half an hour, but he decided he’d go out in his tender to pick up his crab pot just as we arrived. There he was, speeding away--”hey Ed, we got to leave, dock check out is at noon.” He managed to make it back with one big Dungeness in time for us to look at his favorite anchorages in the Broughtons and send us off with a guide book.
Port McNeill Laundromat and Internet visitors Centre
The washers and driers were expensive but the internet was free, a reasonable tradeoff. Bring your laundry and your computer, wash and dry, post on the blog and talk to mom via Skype. It was a friendly atmosphere, and why not: we were all travelers, by land or sea, all doing the same thing. Met a family who were all there--mom dad and teenage son and daughter. When the dad found out I was from Ashland, he launched into a very detailed story about how he got a ticket there, including an exact description of the solid and dashed road markings. Anybody who has that kind of memory for a town he had been to once years ago “when my kids were old enough to enjoy Disneyland” ought to be shot. “Thanks for supporting the local Police Department” I said.
There was Ed, the lone non-interneter--reading a book of all things,laughing out loud at the funny parts. He’s been over the top (of the Island) 3 times, and as a single handler no less.
As things were winding down and the number of computer users had dwindled to a mere me from a maximum of 6, Sven and Melanie (names are changed to protect the not so innocent) came in: they are on a 32 foot steel ketch which he built. Based in Seattle, they too are going down the outside, and have about the same cruising speed as us. Unfortunately, they have to be back in Seattle August first to work, how unfortunate. Sven had read about this particular hull design when he was in eighth grade “It chose me” as he put it. Designed in 1926 by Hannah as a wooden hull and redesigned years later for steel, he found a basic hull that had been laid up by someone in Missouri. He went back to look at it, and called his then girlfriend Melanie to see what she thought. “Well given the fact that you don’t know how to weld, I think you should buy it.” He had it shipped out to Washington on a flatbed trailer. Seven years later, it was ready to be launched. “It’s nice to finally have her in the water.” I guess!
Navigating through the rocks
Our sail over to the Broughtons from Port McNeill started under a darkly and blustery clouded sky, but it was blessedly warm--I only had to wear one layer under my light weight rain gear. (It’s July after all.) Ken was his usual anxious self to get the sails up. We had about 45 minutes of good wind, and then it was clocking and veering all over the place. To get to the Broughtons, we had to go southeast--the first time we weren’t going north or west since we set out. And guess what? The ‘prevailing noserlies were just that--this was a storm out of the SE and we had a head wind!
The Broughtons are an Archipelago-- that must mean a land of many rocks. The chart looks like an irregular set of large islands with popcorn strewn in-between--popcorn that could ground and grind the hull to a very unpleasant stop. Neither Ken nor I have ever been here before. We do have the Garmin of course for navigation--how did they ever do it before electronics and satellites-- but Ken said “I’d like to try it with out using that thing.” They call it dead reckoning--finding your position based on your relationship to visual clues--that mounded island to port, that pointy rock way off to starboard, that day marker to the east--then looking at the chart. We were searching for a small opening between a multitude of islands, islets and rocks before us. It was bewildering to me, but Ken was able to steer us on the right course, without hitting anything the chart required we give a wide berth to. His only flaw was to not understand why I couldn’t do it too!!!
Lorena McKinett, melodious wren song, Bald Eagles flying at close range, the early dusk and cooling air we sit inShoal Harbor off Gilford Idland. And the falling tide and advancing shore, oh I hope they’ll be adequate sea below the hull!
Truly lucky, truly blessed.

Bitches Blog Port Neville and Johnstone Straight

2008-07-04T11:59:00.000-07:00

There once was a Sea of Soup Pea

Through wihich we wanted to flee

We felt forlourn, and tooted our horn

But alas that last boat went unseen

Johnstone Straight is notorious for high winds, and fog. We experienced both! I took a great video of the high wind experience, but here are some photos of the Straight.

We again celebrated Canada Day in Port Neville with Lorna, granddaughter of one of the original settlers in the Port, she has lived here all her life. She sold off a chunk of her land to 2 veterinarians from Nanaimo who will be building a cabin here. they were surveying their land while we were here, and they carry a shotgun with them because there are bears here. As Ken and I discovered, we were just off the shore in the woods when I heard Ken saying "nice bear, Nice bear". No he didn't really say that but he did see one with in talking distance. They had a staring contest (Ken one) and the bear sidled away.

Later I saw a large dog running up from the water, shaking is thick coat dry. He ambled up the rocky point, flipping rocks with his massive paws. It was then that I realized when he was stuffing his face with crabs from under the rock that this was a small bear! I waved to him and he politely turned tail. Sorry, no photos of our bear encounters.

We were sailing along Johnstone Straight

Who's winds made us notoriously late

They rose at ten, capturing us then

Disasterously sealing our fate!

Moving north

2008-07-03T16:20:00.001-07:00

July 3rd 2008
Port McNeill on the upper Vancouver Island west side is the last good provisioning place before going around the top and down the outside of ther island. We will make a pit stop in Port hardy in a few days to pick up out snailmail. The weather is great as it has finally warmed up, but the wind is still unfortunately on the nose and we are doing way to much motoring. The locals talk about the wind as "prevailing nosers" for those heading up island. We both look forward to turning the corner at Cape Scott and heading south. The canadians we have met are friendly and open. There must also be some sort of buffer at the border that screens out the difficult americans as we have only met great fellow travelers.
I do love being pretired and not having to get up in the morning until I want to usually. Also love not having listened to a real news broadcase for weeks. Hope the world can get along without my permission.

Ken

Making our way

2008-06-30T11:23:00.000-07:00

June 27,2008 Squirrel Cove Cortes Island
I believe Vancouver named this island Cortes after the Spanish captain he met when they were both doing surveys to claim the land for their own countries.
The day turned sunny and quite warm after an almost winterish day yesterday, raining and cool. We stayed in and read then as the rain let up took the dinghy and motored over to Laura Cove. The intertidal zones are a linear display of yellow and brownish greens from the kelp. There are clumps of oysters everywhere, and they far out number the mussels unlike the Oregon coast where we don’t have any preponderance of oysters. The water is very clean and there is no trash, very pristine, but many areas are affected by red tide and you cannot harvest any clams, mussels or oysters.
We went ashore here on Melanie Cove. It’s very verdant and felt much like the Oregon Coast with it’s depth of sword ferns and density of conifers, minus the Redwoods. How fortunate we are to have our towering giant Redwoods! Also make note of BC’s own variety of slug, unlike our banana slug, theirs has a giraffe’s spots!

Made a pit stop as we left Desolation Sound and actually sailed! Across to Refuge Cove on West Redonda Island. This is a year round community that is very laid back and tourist friendly. Ken thought I might want a burger (I think they call that projection so we each had a $12 hamburger that I guess was worth it. They had no internet there--I was hoping to post to the blog.
We had met some people in LUND who lived their working lives in Medford, but moved to Friday Harbor a few years ago and just joined a sailing club--their up here with some other boaters. They know Roger Vanderbeek well. Don and Mary. We chatted with them at lunch--all about boating of course.
The beauty is spectacular here--reminds me somewhat of Glacier National Park with a salty twist. Lots of boats around but not too many. The woman at the Refuge Cove store said it will really be busy in July and August. Just now I saw 2 Black Oystercatchers--no surprise they would be here! They have outstandingly prominent long reddish orange thick bills, as one would expect they would need. A family of Canada Geese and their young just paddled by. And most touching to me, I heard the brief and distant call of the Loon. I just spied a kitty cat on a cute little power boat from Oregon no less.
Ken spent quite a bit of time pouring over the charts to get us through the notorious Yuculta and Dent Rapids, which we will be leaving for at 6 in the morning. Thank God for these long days! There is no good close staging area, and so we must travel 25 miles tomorrow to be there at slack ebb at 12:45. We will have an ebb against us, and we need to do 6 knots. Stay tuned!

Anchoring 101-104

2008-06-25T08:16:00.000-07:00

Had an unanticipated very challenging course in anchoring at Copeland Islands just north of here. We dinghied around to a very pretty little horseshoe bay just around the corner from where we had anchored on the Malaspina side of the island. There was a sailboat, tucked in the center, but when we motored around the next day it was gone. It had looked an easy place to settle back into, but as we were doing so the wind came up a bit and kept pushing us to the rocky steps at the northwestern edge of the opening. Ken took a stern line to shore and had to work hard not only traipsing over the sharp-as-diamonds barnacled rocks, but fighting the wind and our full keel to haul the boat in at a proper angle and position. No sooner did he return to the boat when the wind freshened more, and we could see that we were too far outside of the inlet. So I took the dinghy to shore and let go the stern line and we returned to the other side of the island and our previous anchorage.
There were 2 boats there now, and we pulled up in front of them and could see that neither had a stern line, so we just headed up into the wind, and dropped anchorin front of them in about 50 feet of water. We were head on to about 20 knots of wind, and the first time the anchor didn’t set but we tried it again and with about 200 feet of scope out we got a good set. Good thing too because it blew all night. On our night time potty breaks we both went on deck to check our position. We were holding fast, though I was more concerned about our swing than anything else.

I spent some time doing an eye splice on the deck line, though I’m going to need some more time to perfect it. I also whipped the ends with the French Whip, which is oh so simple as well as elegant. I’m going to whip the bobstay at the bottom of the bowsprit, as the anchor chain will eventually chafe it. Should look terrific and functional too.

We came up the Malaspina Straight, gateway to Desolation Sound, noticing vapors out of the exhaust pipe. The engine was running fine, so after Ken’s investigation at Westview (a lovely vacation spot, see photos) and consultation of the diesel for mariners book figured the Yanmar just needed a valve adjustment. We are awaiting the Yanmar mechanic here in LUND BC to do just that. LUND is the end of the road, the multinational North American continent spanning, West Coast artery road Highway 101. A block of ice costs $3.50 Canadian here, so I am ready for 5 dollar bread at Nancy’s bakery. Actually I got 6 big cinnomin rolls--day old--for 6 bucks!

Smuggler's Cove, mainland BC

2008-06-25T07:59:00.000-07:00

On to a more natural setting, we continued north to this special hideout, Smuggler's Cove. It was absolutely gorgeous and pristine, but I think I'll be saying that a lot in the next weeks and will have to come up with some new modifiers.

This hidden anchorage was used by bootleggers to cache their spirits as they smuggled it down the coast back in the 1800's

There are other boaters around, but it is not yet crowded.

We took our dinghy on to shore to stretch our sailor's legs and get a little exercise.

Nanaimo

2008-06-25T07:55:00.000-07:00

Nanaimo! (Nah-ny-mo) Gateway to the east side of Vancouver Island and points north! It's a lovely cosmopolitan marina haven. There is a lot of money here, big 80 foot cruising yachts with dark windows. Funny thing, you never actually see peple on the mega-yachts, I think they just sit inside and enjoy watching people walk by open mouthed staring at their monster-wealth.But down on the common docks, everyone is friendly and in good spirits. Ofcourse I unabashedly meet all the dog people. Bailey's (see photo) people were divinely guided to our dock just so I could snuggle with his sweetness. You can see from the photo that he knew his entire purpose in coming to Nanaimo and he couldn't wait to meet me!! Even Ken had a moment of doggy interest and Bailey obliged him.

Dodd Narrows and on to Nanaimo, Vancouver Island

2008-06-19T09:21:00.000-07:00

In order to get to Nanaimo, you have to pass through one of the narrowest funnels between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland, Dodd Narrows. For boats like ours, it is imperative that we transit the Narrows at slack water, meaning the time between the flood inward tide and the ebb outward tide. The whole of the sea that moves around the southern half of Vancouver Island passes through this narrow waterway, creating turbulence and high speed flows, up to 8 knots of more. We passed through easily at slack tide.

Once we passed through Dodd Narrows, it was another 90 minute motor sail to Nanaimo. A special treat awaited us, Canada's brand new ferry, the Vancouver 2010. It was beautiful to see, but ofcourse we always keep an eye all ferries, as they move much faster than you might think for there size. In case of a collision. ferry 1, Allymar 0!

Bitches Blog: DeCourcy Island

2008-06-19T08:37:00.000-07:00

One of the Canadian Gulf Islands, DeCourcy has a nice little anchorage called Pirates Cove. We've been here a few times before. There is a treasure chest, symbolic of the Cove's wilder past, that boaters have enjoyed decorating with costume jewlery. However when we arrived this time, the treasure chest was gone--and know one could tell us why. It was quite a dissapointment as we had saved up our bangles and baubles for the past two years! Ken brought the bag of trinklets to the Island and instead displayed them on the plaque commemorating the island as a Marine Park. Perhaps we started a new ritual! Map graciously provided by John Kimantas of WildCoast.ca

If you look closely at the map, you'll see Pylades Channel towards the top. DeCourcy is a tiny unlabeled island near there.

Getting wet

2008-06-18T16:29:00.000-07:00

We are in Nanaimo B.C. enjoying the good weather and this fine city. Had a couple of boat jobs to do and they are finished and now to relax. The head holding tank was the messy one and the zinc for the propeller shaft was the wet one. Very important to get wet for one and keep dry for the other and I did it correctly thank goodness. Harp said to have someone take pictures of me in the water doing the prop shaft and put them in the blog. Hope they come. Although it takes up a fair amount of room to have a wet suit with us, it was worth it. The reason for the replacement of the zinc on the shaft was that it was removed by the line from the crab pot we picked up off the coast of Oregon. Glad to finally have that behind us. The zinc is used as a sacracifial metal to corrode rather than the metal of the boat itself. Salt water, stray electrical charges lead to electrical corrosion

Tomorrow we will leave Nanaimo for Desolation Sound and points farther north.

Fair winds

Ken

Finally "Canada"

2008-06-17T20:00:00.000-07:00

Plans (all plans it seems) change with time and weather. Our plans have changed and we are finally in warm weather and do not have the wind, waves and currents on the nose. Tried to sail agound Cape Beale to Barkley Sound and up the west side of Vancouver Ialand and just could not make it with any comfort. The reality was that we could expect more of that weather and sailing conditions all the way up the outside and it made no sense to continue. Turned around and sailed down the Strait of Juan De Fuca and will now go up the unside passage and down the outside of Vancouver Island (counter clockwise). What a joy to have winds on our stern pushing us rather than thrashing into them. What a joy to go from 40 to 50 degrees to sunshine and sunscreen.

We are in Nanaimo B.C. and will push off across the Straits of Georgia for Pender Harbor and up to Desolation Sound on thursday. I spent my 60th birthday here 2 years ago and both of us find it to be a very pleasant city. Harp continues to take great pictures which I am sure she will share.

Fair winds and lemonade in the afternoon

Ken

Westport gulls

2008-06-05T15:48:00.000-07:00

Can't have too many pictures.

The one legged gull is well fed--this platform is right next to the returning charter boat's dock. They throw him a nice fillet of catch-of-the-day, everyday!

Lighthouse is the tallest in Washington.

Sailus Interrupticus

2008-06-05T15:30:00.000-07:00

No one knows better than those who make their living by the sea that weather rules your life and livlihood. Fortunately for us, this series of low pressure storms is just a minor inconvienence, but we are trying to avoid bordom just the same. Can't remember the last time we watched a movie before noon. If I eat one more piece of saltwater taffy I'll probably pull a filling out!

We need about 30 hours of good weather and we'll make a dash for Vancouver Island. We're shooting for Saturday, but our fate is in Neptune's hands.

Here are a few shots of Westport to keep you all entertained.

Harp

Close Encounters of the Coast Guard Kind

2008-05-30T10:54:00.000-07:00

I am now able to get into the blog. Some of you have received this already via an email I sent, so this is for the others.

Hello Everyone! This is Harp aka Cindy emailing from Westport WA.We've had waaay too much fun already!
Second day out we were near Lookout Point south of Tillamook Bay when someone on watch (guess who?) picked up an unwanted passenger who wrapped himself to the propeller, stopping us dead and sending us adrift. The tag-a-long in question was a crab pot. For those who don't know, crabbers send crab pots to the ocean floor at about 20-60 fathoms with a line to the surface supported by floats. They are notoriously difficult to see and amazingly easy to catch even in the wide wide ocean.
I had been on deck centering up the staysail when I stood up and saw the floats go by right next to the hull, disappear, and didn't re-appear. I quickly put the engine in neutral but by then the damage had been done.
At this point we called the Coast Guard and the cowboys of the sea were on scene within 20 minutes. After much guy type work--grappling the line and sawing through it with a dive knife, they freed the line from the pot. We had hoped to reconnect it to the floats thus saving the pot and it's catch for the owner, but due to the heavy current were unable to do so.
We were still unable to maneuver so the CG ran a bridle back to our windlass and towed us to Tillamook. Their cutter was capable of at least 30-40 knots, but they had to tow us at our maximum hull speed of 6 and a half knots. Must have felt like a snails pace to them but we were flying!
Up to this point we had been motor sailing, as the winds had been primarily on our nose with some deviation out of the west. The new Yanmar diesel ran admirably but Ken is somewhat disappointed in the RPM's and thus increased fuel usage to get us to cruising speed.
We spent the night in Girabaldi, a small fishing town in Tillamook Bay. Even before we stepped off the dock everyone knew what had happened to us because they all monitor channel 16 on the VHF and overheard the entire 'drama' and communication with the CG. Though we were deep in fisher/crabber country, and we had just destroyed the gear of one man's livelihood, they were as helpful and friendly as they could be.
The next morning Ken went to get a diver to free the polypropylene line from the prop and shaft (it was not only wound around but twisted) but at dockside I was able to reach over with the boat hook and fairly quickly free it. Absolved and redeemed!
We have had a wonderful crewman aboard for this first leg of the journey due to the potential for a rough passage. Bob is a 72 yr old former fisherman and logger who just likes being out on the sea. I suspect that he won't forget his 72nd birthday as that was the day we hooked the crab pot! I told him that if he ever needed a recommendation as a crew member I would give him high marks--easygoing, not a complainer, eats whats prepared for him and a good watchman to boot! Thank-you Bob, we'll miss your company.
We left Tillamook Bay around 2pm on Tuesday and didn't expect to be in Gray's Harbor until Thursday. But because of light winds and some great current as we passed the Columbia Bar, we actually made it here an entire day ahead of time. We had originally planned to stop in Neah Bay, but we had an incident with our black water holding tank and Gray's Harbor has a marine supplier whereas Neah Bay does not. The holding tank had to be removed (that is a story for a different entry) thus we are waiting for the new one to come in today.
We plan to take off tomorrow Friday and it should be another over night run to there.
Not sure when we'll write again. Don't intend on sending out emails like this in the future so don't worry about getting them on going.
Thank-you for everyone's support in making our dream a reality. We are both doing well, though I'd pay 5 bucks for a hot tub to warm my cold damp bones.
Cindy/Harp on sv Allymar

Going up the coast

2008-05-29T15:45:00.000-07:00

We are in Westport Washington (Grays Harbor) for a few days to have a new holding tank for the head shipped in from who knows where. Left Winchester Bay on the start of the ebb (just about as much chop as i ever want to see on a river bar), sailed north and had an unexpected stop in Tillamock Bay the next day. I will let Harp fill in the details of the stop. It was good to see and cross a new river bar and once again revel in the friendliness of small town Oregon and the boating community.

Coming up the coast against the wind and current has been a slog to weather, but Allymar is doing great and we are adjusting slowly to the rythums of our new life. Hope to leave on the evening flood tomorrow to go to Neah Bay Washington if the tank arrives.

Bob (our crew up to Westport) was a great person to have on board. Doing 4 hour watches with 8 hours off is so much better than back to back 3 hour. Bob's pace and personality as well as his ability to impart to Harp lessons in sailing were very appreciated by me. To learn from someone not your husband is needed isn't it.

Will update as possible. Internet access is spotty.

Ken

What the heck are Ken and Harp doing

2008-04-27T13:05:00.000-07:00

Hello friends.

This is Ken. This message is to the many people who have asked why there have not been any updates on this blog. Well, I just did not feel that "non sailing just working on the boat" was important enough to post. Here goes.

On the home front most of the large items are stored in the trailer. We are sleeping on the floor on a futon mattress and out clothes are in boxes. So far we are not to the point of eating out of the pot we cooked in (remember those college days!)

The fitting out of the boat continues. Inside work predominating during the frequent Oregon rains (sure have better weather in the Rogue Valley than the coast). Radios are in and wired, autopilot is ready for sea trials, head has been serviced and all compartments can now be secured. Possibly we will upgrade to a propane stove to replace the current alcohol one due to the high cost of alcohol (due to the diversion of food crops to ethanol and rising prices)

Outside the mast steps are on, bulwarks are painted, sails have been run up and down, monitor windvane control lines attached, lifelines replaced, cockpit cover back in place and secured, secondary anchor ready with divided anchor locker etc. Hew diesel runs good but the stuffing box needs to be adjusted. I have learned that any boat job will take 4 times as long as I expect, I will drop tools and parts either in the bilge or the water, and involve significant salty language. Attached is a picture of Ken working in the aft compartment attending to the water lift muffler and the stuffing box which is under it. Compare that to the inside picture of sewing a hatch cover.

We will try to be more timely and frequent in these posts.

Departure date is May 23 with the first port of call being Neah Bay Washington. We are looking for 1 crewperson to join us on the trip up the coast. If you are interested.......

Ken and Harp

New Diesel for Allymar

2008-01-22T20:16:00.000-08:00

The old Volvo's habit of leaving a trail of oil might of worked as breadcrumbs on a trail, but was not at all helpful in the water (and a big polluter). Re-power was the answer, with a new Yanmar 30 horse. Removing the old Volvo and replacing it was accomplished by using the mizzen boom (with support from the spreaders) and a block and tackle. Up and over the lifelines she came without putting a hole in the bottom of the boat. Paul Mc Donald (a retired La Grande, Oregon John Deere mechanic) made it all happen. Thanks you so much Paul. Thanks also to the weather gods who gave up 3 days of cold but clear weather in January.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL

2007-12-15T20:24:00.000-08:00

Our desire is that everyone has a happy and healthy holiday season 2007. May you find in the New Year that all of your wishes have come true, your loves are manifest, and your zest for life to be buoyant.

Ken and Cindy (aka goose and harp)

Summer Cruise 2007 Finally, Tatoosh Island to Port.

2007-12-13T19:56:00.000-08:00

Summer cruise 2007

2007-12-13T18:24:00.000-08:00

Summer cruise 2007

2007-12-13T17:58:00.000-08:00

Due to the need to continue working and (with difficulty) accepting that Allymar was not ready for a lengthly cruise, our plans changed to a short month long summer cruise only. The main goal was to get her down to the coast of Oregon where we could more easily do the final fitting out.

Highlights of this summer were the opportunity to tie up in front of the Empress Hotel in Victoria B.C, finally putting Tatoosh Island to port and the trip down the coast dodging storms and crew sea sickness. We stopped at Neah Bay and Grays Harbor Washington to yearn for northwesterlies and wait out 40 knot southerlies. We were allowed to sit around with other storm bound sailors watching the weatherfax and listening to the radio. Of significant help was the one boat with a "router" to give him advise (which we all benifited from). For the first time we were really introduced to the "sailing fraternity" and how everyone helps each other. Do wonder how the trip down the coast was for the big Swan that left on the worst day as they needed to get to San Francisco for the big boat series.

The final 24 hours offshore was in the fog and to see the fog lift and the lighthouse appear as we approached the Unpqua bar was so beautiful and inspiring. We became well versed in Radar and GPS plotting. Seeing those large blips appear on the screen and to be able to plot their course and speed was an experience. You know that the ship was there, but never saw it took some getting ued to and accepting technology. Sure wish that crab pots gave a better radar image, as they are everywhere.
Allymar sits today in Winchester Bay Oregon at the mouth of the Unpqua River awaiting final fitting out.

Employers have been given notice and in late May we will be waiting for southerlies and a trip back up the coast. The plan is to circumnavigate Vancouver Island and maybe go to the Queen Charlottes before heading back down south for Mexico in the fall. We both are not really looking forward to the trip up coast (against the current and prevailing winds) as it has the reputation of being a harsh mistress.

More to come.

February 2007

2007-02-19T19:16:00.000-08:00

Although we are not yet on the water (plan is still for early summer 07) the fitting out continues.

Ken spent 5 days on the boat in Jan 07. Got as much done as the wearther permitted.

We purchased the following items:
Monitor Windvane.
Garmin 18 radar and new chart screen.
Viking liferaft.
Honda outboard for the dingy.
Wind and water-towed DC generator.
SSB radio and load the aft stay, and attach dynaplate as counterpoise.
EPRIB.

The potential loose lower rudder gudgeon is being repaired. The extra battery bank will be fitted in April. Hopefully the dryrot on the bulwarks will have been attended to by then also.

Ken will be on the boat for a week in April to do as much as possible to get Allymar ready.

Nothing but dollars flying out of the wallet. Thank goodness for the Seattle boat show which gave us some very good discounts.

Ken

2006-12-02T20:40:00.000-08:00

December 2006

2006-12-02T20:27:00.000-08:00

Thought I would put something in here finally. The time till we leave seems so far in the future, but as I look at the list of the lists I am developing the time seems so short. Things to do. packing to do, boat projects to complete (and I am not on site to do them or even supervise). Purchased a trailer the other day to pack all of the stuff we will keep in for the time of the journey. Somehow shoehorned it into the backyard.
The time for looking at catalogs is over, the time for doing is here.

Ken